“The idea was to create a contrast of the masculine and feminine,” said Alessandro Dell’Acqua backstage before his No. 21 show on the first day of Milan Fashion Week.
It was a sound bite that had a very familiar ring to it as this is a territory, along with injecting lingerie elements into his show, which Dell’Acqua visits quite frequently. Perhaps now just a tad too often, truth be told.
This time he explored the concept of using boxy masculine underpinnings (a button up shirt, a straight forward overcoat) and covering them with sequins to give them a topcoat of girly glam. He went all out with this idea when he coated generous outerwear, spacious shift dresses and full-legged trousers in iridescent sequined flower motifs. A more subtle alternative was when he covered the shimmering paillettes with an overlay of fine knitwear on a long sleeve top or under the semi sheer skirt of a lace dress. And he even made some of the pieces “glam optional” by only placing sparkling crystals on what looked to be removable harnesses on fur coats, mohair cardigans and wool coats.
Dell’Acqua’s roomy double cashmere takes on slip dresses (worn over shimmering bra tops) fell flat seeing as they were worn by models missing the necessary jiggle to give them a jolt. But there were a few strong pull away items from this show. A voluminous green checked blouson jacket that melted into fur at the hem was cleverly done and the knitwear in the collection, which featured just a smattering of sequins at the shoulder or two vertical lines of crystal used to accent the waist, was spot on. Also original was the designer's choice to just add a panel of checked sequins down the side of a dress or a band of fluffy ostrich feathers along the length of a leg on a pencil skirt.
This was a cohesive collection to be sure. But it seemed like Dell’Acqua fell back on his tried and tested sartorial touchstones with this show. As if his focus was elsewhere. Perhaps it was with his upcoming debut collection for Rochas in Paris next week?
Watch the show!