“The mood, the situation, is aristocratic. Like the Luchino Visconti films of the 1950s mixing with sportswear elements. I like to mix and match. But this season it was more about the mixing of romantic femininity with a legerity and masculinity,” said designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua backstage before his show.
Over the years, Dell’Acqua has become quite an impressive fashion mixologist. He has always been on the hunt for new ways to bring masculine and feminine, sportswear and sophistication, and minimalism with maximalism together.
This season he found a perfect blend.
In one of his strongest collections in recent memory, the designer produced a lineup of asymmetrically layered ensembles that gave his more familiar sartorial ingredients a new kick. The almost avant-garde arrangements of fabrics that moved from flou to fan pleating and flouncing across the ensembles were masterfully done. And the juxtaposition of rich gold brocades woven into grey knitwear was unexpectedly delightful.
The textural and proportional transitions on look #30, a beige beauty that started with a cropped nubby-wide lapel coat and grew into a layer of fur which then hovered over panels of plan knee-length wool fabric on one side and to a lace-edged fabric on the other — all of it worn over a pair of slim pants with a razor pleat at the front and hick heeled red ankle boots — were seriously impressive.
Other takeaway items in the collection included the lovely Patrician tapestry outerwear, shimmering with embroidered jacquards. A blue marble effect mohair ensemble and the semi-sheer bird-embellished pieces were other winners in a show filled with strong options.
David Bowie was singing "Let's Dance" on the show's soundtrack. It’s good advice. This collection deserves to be celebrated.