Ever since Alessandro Dell’Acqua was named the designer of the Rochas brand, his own No. 21 collection has found a new sense of purpose and direction. It is almost as if having to work two jobs has lit a fire in the belly of Dell’Acqua. He is daring and delivering more remarkable and real-world designs than ever. Pieces that challenge current trends by offering alternatives that pull fashion onto new paths that are unexpected but still feel very much of the now.
This season the designer took up the challenge of trying to bring together the visual esthetics of the photographers Tina Modotti and Corinne Day. However, other than the permeating sense of freshness and fragility the collection called to mind, the link to the two women remained exclusively one found on a cerebral plane. But who cares if the starting point wasn't easily spelled out when the results are so strong.
In particular, it was Dell’Acqua’s attraction to delicate embellishments that really elevated this collection: a top came swathed in bands of ribbon and lace sprinkled with sequins, skirts were hemmed in tassels and coats flowed past adorned with rosette swirls.
While it was the quirky way the designer also incorporated apron-like panels of pleats on the front of skirts, twisted stripped shirting and knitwear about the torso like avant-garde bows and decided to show skirts with dramatic asymmetrical ruffled hemlines that finished mid-thigh on one leg that helped to give the show an audacious drive.
This was an effervescent collection that bubbled with interesting ideas that always remained beautiful while almost boastfully choosing to being different.