"Where are all the club kids?" someone asked as the lights went down before the Nasir Mazhar show - the final salvo of London's three-day menswear event. It was a fair question: Mazhar's tribe of fiercely loyal fans have been in noisy evidence on previous occasions, whooping and stomping their clear approval.
Today was all a little more serious on the Victoria House benches - serious editors, serious suits, sensible shoes. And they were watching a serious show: Mazhar's brand of logo-heavy streetwear is a world apart from the kind of playful parody version Jeremy Scott showed yesterday. He seems, as a designer, to be constantly on the lookout, absorbing and reworking what he sees and remembers from the city around him.
The most interesting part of today's collection was the opening portion: a sequence which mixed flat, flapping layers of Mazhar's brand-striped streetwear with pinstriped shirting, flipping back and forward between formality and casualness with subversive ease. The rest of the show, which shifted into more familiar territory with slick, disco-luxurious metallics and menacing hooded forms, was powerful too - but the quietly-played disruptiveness of those first mixed-and-mismatched looks made an apt closing summary of London's ongoing tussle between past and future.