A clean slate. That's what the fall collection of Nehera, a dormant Eastern European brand revived in 2013 and amped up last season with the appointment of Samuel Drira, felt like. There were no more than a handful of looks. With thick wool ovoid coats, flowing trousers paired with a jacket tailored precisely but without sharpness, asymmetric closures simply drawn shut with a length of ribbon, silhouettes ran evoked ascetic orders, their placid walk around a circular pond of stones something of a meditational move. Like his season's muse, sculptor Eva Hesse, the collection bridged a gap between minimalist structure and organic envelopment.
Offering enough asperities for the eye to linger while remaining distant, the Nehera woman seems to be one in full possession of herself. Certainly, the geometric pattern woven into the fabric of a coat, or the soft hand of a suit-weight cashmere were arguments enough. It was easy to see this exist beyond the runway as evidenced by the early birds who were privy to the silhouettes among the guests.
"We have to recreate a bit of distance, a sense of mystery," Drira said backstage, quizzed about the sense of quiet aloofness that emanated from his work here. For certain, this aesthetic flows from the same fount that made his mark at brands such as The Row or Hermès. With retail prices ranging between €250 for a simple shirt up to €2500 for the most complex knits, and averaging €900 on a coat, Nehera is smartly positioned in the arms race to customer conquest.