When an exploding pipe hoses a good part of the front row and a temporary evacuation takes place even before the show has begun, you know the clothes have little chance of matching the high level of drama and suspense. However, drama isn’t the currency Oliver Spencer deals in, and with good reason: he is a master of cool, unstructured tailoring that falls just into celebrity gone incognito territory. Further developing his particular brand of updated classic for the well-rounded urban dweller, Spencer turned out everything from lightweight nylon macs to judo pants. Jarring fabric collision were rendered with a confident sleight of hand, resulting in a medley of rusting schoolboy plaids, mottled tweeds and florals. Amid the relaxed blazers and easy layers drawing city/country contrasts, the bomber jacket stood out as the definitional season item, bringing the best of both worlds.
With trousers rolled up or cropped at the ankle, and sporting every kind of beard, mustachios or spectacles that one might expect to encounter on The Sartorialist, the models channeled the enviably easy elegance of someone who knows exactly what they are doing with their look. Accompanied by a live set by The Specials drummer John Bradbury, the collection was modeled by a typically eclectic cast including Blur’s Alex James and Spandau Ballet’s Gary Kemp, demonstrating the irresistible versatility of Spencer’s clothes. It’s exactly what the likes of Johnny Depp should consider; a look of grown-up, calm edge for the man at the top of his game, in no need of showing off.