On Aura Tout Vu Couture Spring Summer 2013 Paris
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After celebrating ten years of couture just last season, Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov have taken On Aura Tout Vu (a French colloquial expression that can be translated to “Now that takes the cake!”) on a journey of renewal, following the evolution of a beetle from birth to adulthood. The duo likes to flirt with their inspirations, remixing them with a good scoop of flamboyance.

On Aura Tout Vu’s signature sparkle appears to be absent in the opening tame prints, before building up to the shimmer.  Gradually building up to a shimmer, then a full shine with their usual Swarovski embellishments. The two designers played with their totem animal fully, transforming its elytra into transparent PVC sleeves, reusing its sharp but organic angles to dress up necklines with collars, right down to the beetle wings themselves, sourced in Thailand and used as sequins. More than ten thousand beetle wings were used in the creation of this collection, being painstakingly embroidered onto the clothing until right before the show. Tailored volumes on the upper body were teamed with form revealing lower halves, when there were any. Show stopping bodices were present, as they often are, but were balanced with flirty dresses and glamorous floor-sweeping numbers.

The creative pair seemed to fumble slightly with their transparent pieces, which didn’t have the same charm as the rest. A touch of Mugler’s insectile obsessions ricocheted from one look to another. But On Aura Tout Vu appropriated the theme, giving those who have not flipped through fashion archives recently a personable, shimmery collection to appreciate.

- Lily Templeton

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