On Aura Tout Vu Haute Couture Spring Summer 2014 Paris
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It was high fantasy at On Aura Tout Vu, where the couture house’s dynamic duo sprinkled everything around them with an irresistible and compelling energy. As often, it was short in the hem and long in the storytelling. For the summer season, they played with light and darkness. But for them, even the dark has sparkling qualities to it. Before the opening couple appeared on the runway, models played at being shadow puppets from behind a translucent screen.

The opening felt like a melding between a space opera and its cabaret rendition, as a pair emerged bedazzled from the peak of their naval caps to the tip of their toes. From then, this chiaroscuro carnival spilled out onto the runway with the practiced ease of OATV’s showmanship. Occasionally, this abbreviated and conquering vision of couture faltered, particularly when too many textural variations met embellishments. But the rest took off towards the stars when their sharp tailoring met the season’s material of choice, a thick mesh that helped define volumes just so.

And then the lights went down. As the lights remained dark, the show’s most eye catching looks came out again, this time lit up from within – through carefully disguised battery packs – and shimmied down the runway again. But instead of adding to their discourse on light and dark, this light show felt like a gimmick.

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