Carol Lim and Huberto Leon really do try and think of every possible aspect, angle and partnership under the sun when they put on a fashion show. It’s an art they perfected at the Kenzo shows they create and one they are now also wielding masterfully at their Opening Ceremony presentations.
In their sophomore runway show for the label they decided to give the fashion set something of a chocolate overdoes. First, there were the boxes of chocolate that Callebaut was handing out to the audience as they arrived at the show venue. For those who declined or left behind that delectable treat, they missed out on the chance to win – Willy Wonka style- a “TechPass” prize: one of the new smart bracelets OC designed with Intel. Then there was the supersized fingerprint motif used as the show's backdrop. It was slowly coated with 4000 pounds of Belgian chocolate while a customized chocolate scent created for the brand wafted through the air. And when the urban “inner as outerwear” show finished each guest left with a mug of piping hot chocolate.
And what about the clothes?
Taking the city of Antwerp as its inspiration and the human hand as the show’s leitmotif, the designer came up with a collection that was both graphic and sculptural in nature. Some of the strongest pieces were the grooved fingerprint ensembles that echoed the show’s set design; they looked cool on boxy men’s tops embellished with an open zipper. One would imagine that when the zipper is actually used to pull the front of the top together the effect would be just as intriguing. The motif also looked right at home on the womenswear tops and skirts that were front loaded with folds of fabric. When the designers pulled back to turn the entire hand into a graphic motif, the effect was less engaging. Particularly when used on the asymmetrical pieces.
Some of the strongest garments in this collection appeared in the opening menswear portion of the show. An orange t-shirt with a zipper feature placed just below the waist and left open to show a nylon panel underneath was clever. Double waistband pants that curved up and over the hips had a frisson of sexy appeal, and winter jackets with the look of lining on the outside was utterly modern.
All of these looks will be the ones women will be fighting their boyfriends over come next season.