When did everyone get so nostalgic all of a sudden? Both in New York and London, the catwalks have been full of references — to Nineties grunge, to Seventies glam androgyny, and often simply to a designer's own back catalogue. That was the case, logically enough, at Tommy Hilfiger's anniversary show, but it's also pervaded the work of labels as diverse as Phillip Lim, Victoria Beckham and Preen.
And this afternoon, in the slipstream of Burberry's top-of-the-bill show, Osman Yousefszada presented a collection which in many respects was a retread of one he'd shown back in 2010. That particular collection, inspired by a Wallis Simpson trip to the Far East, remains one of the designer's best: stripped back to an all-white palette, with clean lines offset by boldly architectural detailing.
Today's reworking expanded the palette into three movements: white, cardinal red, and black. And much of that purist aesthetic and witty detail remained. But what was new was all on the surface — coats panelled with cashmere and sheepskin blocks, or dresses wrapped in slim slabs of fur; trouser suits in shimmering, sliced-marble print, or floor-skimming, subtly beaded gowns. There were moments where the eccentricity the designer acknowledged in his show notes went a touch too far (like pompom-fringed hems, or encrusted beadwork that weighted down his precise cutout lines). But on the whole, it was a sensitive new angle on the label's codes — and one which evoked a precise, seductive note of opulence.