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Ovadia & Sons Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2015 New York

Last season, the big news out of chez d'Ovadia was the new athletic line Ovadia+. For that presentation, the brand decided to mix some of the pieces from that line in their nylon fabrications and neon colorations right in with the main line. It threw things off kilter and seemed forced.

So this season, when a nylon jacket came down the runway as well as a few pairs of covetable track pants, the first thought was: eureka! The + line has been styled effortlessly in with the main. But after the show Shimon Ovadia clarified things: "[Plus] wasn't in here this season," he demurred. "There's always a sporty element but we didn't show them together." And while it'll be interesting to see where exactly the differentiation is, the semantics don't get in the way of the strength of the collection.

It's a certain urbane #menswear bro type of guy that's reaching for Ovadia.  A guy who might need a fancy shoe — and boy did they serve up the fancy footwear this season — but with a thick treaded sole, perfect for the miles of walking and sometimes dashing from block to block. That guy appreciates an athletic utility to his pieces. A track pant might be nice for lounging with but, thrown on with the right knit and turtleneck combo, should be able to go to drinks. Likewise, though the tailored trousers for work need to acknowledge the professional setting, they don't have to sacrifice function or comfort for it, including little detailing like zips at the ankle and pockets.

Maybe it's the ridiculous nature of the last two winters, but the brand was the latest in a string that kept their outerwear game on STRONG. Fur collars, an entire coat in karakul and even a digitally printed houndstooth tinged with an ombre coloration at the bottom will all pack the punches in what's set to be a heavyweight melee on the showroom floor as buyers decide where to spend their outerwear budgets.