Julien Dossena has done it again. His fall/winter 2015 show for Paco Rabanne was another considered, sporty chic lineup that put an accent on new volumes, impressive fabric developments and novel disk dress updates.
The designer started his show with a group of trapeze-shaped baby doll dress coats in a combination of wool and rubberized leather that had a strong athletic allure. A pair of zippered hoodies emblazoned with images of monolithic concrete buildings and urban signage also underlined the contemporary nature of this collection. The knowledge that said hoodies are reversible and feature a stealthy all black alternative on the flip side is a great indicator that Dossena is just as interested in the bottom line as he is with telegraphing his modern artistic vision.
A fact also underscored by this show's take on the brand's iconic wire-linked disk design. Dossena searched high and low for what he called the perfect "luxury plastic.” A material malleable enough to comfortably sit on that would still hold its shape. He crafted slightly flared trousers, dresses and tops out of the stuff and then lined it in ribbed knitwear for the wearer's comfort. The idea looked particularly smart as pants crafted with the ribbed lining flowing out and over the top of the trousers, to mimic a low slung belt, that the designer paired with a coordinating three-dimensional geometric knit tank top.
And for those worried about the real-world viability of these translucent iridescent plastic garments, would it help to know that the material is flame retardant and won't melt if put in hot situations...any sort of hot situations?
This idea of transparency wasn't limited to just the plastic confections. Through the layering of filmy fabrics on the final few looks and in particular some intriguing trousers that resembled an X-ray of the real thing, the designer found other clever ways to bring chic clarity to the clean lines of this practical and appealing offering.