Paco Rabanne's Poetic Female Stength

At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also wanted to emphasize their romance. To do this, I played with a collision of different eras from where I got all the traditional references. Paco Rabanne was the house of the craft, and this was the perfect way to explore it even with a very radical approach." Perfection is a woman that can balance fragility and strength. The show reflected this duality, romantic and witchy, delicate and robust. The long delicate dresses with laces and embroideries and plastic macro paillettes faced the armour-like suits in Oroton, and chainmail (which quoted the iconic paco Rabanne metal dresses) and the priestess symbolized a divine power that women never had.

Let's keep talking about women. Strong synergy with the performative arts defined the feminine world of Chloé where creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi reunited multiple feminine personalities and characters. Levi collaborated with three different female artists to reinforce the message: the works of Hungarian-born and New York-based painter Rita Ackermann who was active in the Nineties were printed on silks blouses, knitwear, tees and coats lining. The venue was adorned with gilded totemic sculptures by french artist Marion Verboom whose motifs were in conversation with the decorations of the collection. The third one was a collaboration with Marianne Faithful, who worked with different novelists and writers on the soundtrack of spoken word poetry that accompanied the show. All the partnerships created a cosy mood perfect for a collection which was very personal and intimate. The designer infused a luxurious hippy allure to her women as she were part of a community, where everyone has her own style and influences each other by picking hither and thither from a stable-inspired seventies wardrobe with a very desirable and precious soft silhouette and relaxed tailoring. 

Rick Owens ideally continued the aesthetic path he started with the last men's show. Asymmetrical slashed dresses (in the other shows they were jumpsuits), gigantic shoulders and signature platform boots. The inspiration started from new wave British musician Gary Numan which aesthetic and music pushed Owens to start a dialogue with him to work on the soundtrack, on the other hand, the singer's fascination for sci-fi and synthesizers inspired the graphic looks. Numan, together with some artists of his time, such as Kraftwerk, Roxy Music and David Bowie (in the berlin trilogy) was one of the pioneers of the new romantic music wave. This was visible it whole collection from Bowie's Ziggy Stardust by Kansai Yamamoto (that was present also in the men's collection) to the leopard prints and the opalescent leathers memories of the eighties. 

Off white is growing up, a progression of the men's collection where his streetwear style started to turn into a more mature look, same happened this woman collection. The girl turned into a lady, and this began to come through the soft trenches and tailored coats, but with deep slits that turned them into a sexy dress, silk shirts and cow printed ponyskin skirts and distorted pied de poule. As usual, the references were different and bright. There was also a Tom Ford for Gucci Halston inspired white dress and Viktor&Rolf huge slashed crinoline dresses. Virgil Abloh is evolving is streetwear approach to a more adult style trying to engage new audiences and, maybe accidentally, introduce to young generation a more refined look which is not just related to tracksuit and sneakers. The effort is necessary as fashion is a fast dynamic world and always needing new inputs, but the designer must start to invent instead of merely sampling.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Huda Kattan Pledges $100.000 in Support of Struggling Make-up Artists
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When...
Beauty icon, entrepreneur and founder of Huda Beauty, Huda Kattan, has pledged to donate $100,000 to support freelance make-up artists who are struggling during the COVID-19 crisis.   In a raw and emotional Instagram video, she explained: “When coronavirus first hit, I think everyone was scared about like ‘how can I protect my loved ones?’ And...
L'Oréal Acquires the Mugler Brands and Azzaro Fragrances
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the...
By Alice Ierace
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins...
Beauty brand L’Oréal has announced that, after obtaining the necessary authorisations from the relevant authorities, it has finalised the acquisition of the Mugler brands and Azzaro fragrances from Clarins Group.As it stands, the companies include Mugler, Thierry Mugler (Fashion), Clarins Fragrance Group (CFG), CFG France, Cosmeurop and CFG UK – activities that, in 2018, represented...
Marco Zanini’s Quest for Independence
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a...
By Elisa Carassai
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a...
Marco Zanini is no rookie in the fashion system. With a background that counts experiences at Versace, Halston, Schiaparelli, Rochas and Santoni, the designer has, over time, developed a cult following his appointment at Rochas. It comes however, as a surprise, to why an experienced designer like Zanini would want to take a ‘gamble’ on himself and...
On a Hunt For Quality
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only worn 3 or 4 times. Then, I remembered that another button was detached from a jacket that was not much older; that the hem of a pair of trousers was beginning to unravel; that the lining of a coat was...
To kill time in this period of confinement, I set out to stitch the button on a coat I had only worn 3 or 4 times. Then, I remembered that another button was detached from a jacket that was not much older; that the hem of a pair of trousers was beginning to unravel; that the lining of a coat was loose by a few centimetres. That several parts of my dressing room were in need of small repairs...
Upcoming Milan and Paris Shows Cancelled
By Alice Ierace
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana...
By Alice Ierace
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana has announced that the Milano Moda Uomo fashion shows and presentations, scheduled June 19th to June 23rd 2020, will now take place during Milano Moda Donna edition in September 2020 instead. “We are...
In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana has announced that the Milano Moda Uomo fashion shows and presentations, scheduled June 19th to June 23rd 2020, will now take place during Milano Moda Donna edition in September 2020 instead. “We are working on new digital formats and new ways of meeting to create, in the days provided by Milano Moda...
Net-A-Porter Shutters E-Commerce Indefinitely
By Elisa Carassai
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and...
By Elisa Carassai
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and stopped its online operations during the coronavirus emergency.“We have made the difficult decision to close our distribution centres in the US and Europe, thus temporarily suspending service in these...
Fashion e-commerce platform Net-A-Porter has bowed to pressure from its worried workers and stopped its online operations during the coronavirus emergency.“We have made the difficult decision to close our distribution centres in the US and Europe, thus temporarily suspending service in these regions including the Middle East. Our Asia Pacific service remains open.” Net-A-Porter explained in an...
Armani and Estée Lauder To Join The Fight Against Covid-19
By Alice Ierace
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and...
By Alice Ierace
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and amongst the first to announce the closure of all its stores to safeguard the health and wellbeing of its staff and clients, Giorgio Armani has now announced the conversion of all its Italian production...
After being amongst the first brands to offer financial support amid the Coronavirus crisis and amongst the first to announce the closure of all its stores to safeguard the health and wellbeing of its staff and clients, Giorgio Armani has now announced the conversion of all its Italian production sites to manufacture disposable lab coats for the personal protection of health workers committed...
Tokyo-Based Designers Reflect on the Effects of Covid on Fashion
By Elisa Carassai
While Italy may be at the epicentre of the pandemic at the moment, the Coronavirus crisis has...
By Elisa Carassai
While Italy may be at the epicentre of the pandemic at the moment, the Coronavirus crisis has been affecting every country, state and industry. Yet, how have designers been reacting? We talked to a series of designers who were supposed to present their collections at Rakuten Fashion Week in Tokyo...
While Italy may be at the epicentre of the pandemic at the moment, the Coronavirus crisis has been affecting every country, state and industry. Yet, how have designers been reacting? We talked to a series of designers who were supposed to present their collections at Rakuten Fashion Week in Tokyo and asked them about how, regardless of the cancellation of Fashion Week, they are reacting and...