At Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena presented an exquisite collection which celebrated the strength of the women and their freedom. "I wanted to highlight their power," explained the designer backstage after the show. "In today's difficult world, they need to be strong and express it. But I also wanted to emphasize their romance. To do this, I played with a collision of different eras from where I got all the traditional references. Paco Rabanne was the house of the craft, and this was the perfect way to explore it even with a very radical approach." Perfection is a woman that can balance fragility and strength. The show reflected this duality, romantic and witchy, delicate and robust. The long delicate dresses with laces and embroideries and plastic macro paillettes faced the armour-like suits in Oroton, and chainmail (which quoted the iconic paco Rabanne metal dresses) and the priestess symbolized a divine power that women never had.
Let's keep talking about women. Strong synergy with the performative arts defined the feminine world of Chloé where creative director Natacha Ramsay-Levi reunited multiple feminine personalities and characters. Levi collaborated with three different female artists to reinforce the message: the works of Hungarian-born and New York-based painter Rita Ackermann who was active in the Nineties were printed on silks blouses, knitwear, tees and coats lining. The venue was adorned with gilded totemic sculptures by french artist Marion Verboom whose motifs were in conversation with the decorations of the collection. The third one was a collaboration with Marianne Faithful, who worked with different novelists and writers on the soundtrack of spoken word poetry that accompanied the show. All the partnerships created a cosy mood perfect for a collection which was very personal and intimate. The designer infused a luxurious hippy allure to her women as she were part of a community, where everyone has her own style and influences each other by picking hither and thither from a stable-inspired seventies wardrobe with a very desirable and precious soft silhouette and relaxed tailoring.
Rick Owens ideally continued the aesthetic path he started with the last men's show. Asymmetrical slashed dresses (in the other shows they were jumpsuits), gigantic shoulders and signature platform boots. The inspiration started from new wave British musician Gary Numan which aesthetic and music pushed Owens to start a dialogue with him to work on the soundtrack, on the other hand, the singer's fascination for sci-fi and synthesizers inspired the graphic looks. Numan, together with some artists of his time, such as Kraftwerk, Roxy Music and David Bowie (in the berlin trilogy) was one of the pioneers of the new romantic music wave. This was visible it whole collection from Bowie's Ziggy Stardust by Kansai Yamamoto (that was present also in the men's collection) to the leopard prints and the opalescent leathers memories of the eighties.
Off white is growing up, a progression of the men's collection where his streetwear style started to turn into a more mature look, same happened this woman collection. The girl turned into a lady, and this began to come through the soft trenches and tailored coats, but with deep slits that turned them into a sexy dress, silk shirts and cow printed ponyskin skirts and distorted pied de poule. As usual, the references were different and bright. There was also a Tom Ford for Gucci Halston inspired white dress and Viktor&Rolf huge slashed crinoline dresses. Virgil Abloh is evolving is streetwear approach to a more adult style trying to engage new audiences and, maybe accidentally, introduce to young generation a more refined look which is not just related to tracksuit and sneakers. The effort is necessary as fashion is a fast dynamic world and always needing new inputs, but the designer must start to invent instead of merely sampling.