Paris Day 5: Hedi Slimane’s New Celine

Hedi Slimane did it again. He surprised and wrong-footed lovers and haters sitting at the show, and, for sure, the millions of people watching the show on streaming. The Celine 03 collection was the celebration of French chicness in 70s style, but also a starting point of a new aesthetic for the designer, but still very rooted in his iconic DNA. He elaborated the classics of the decade in his own unique language, but with no nostalgia.

Celine Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION.

Everything was balanced and every single item desirable. As a well-rounded individual, Slimane has the capacity to turn into dreams even the most classic camel coat. This last collection (as with the previous) is made up of beautiful yet “normal” pieces. If the girls that paraded down the catwalk would exit right after the show and go for a walk on the streets of Paris, they would be the chicest ones in town without appearing like aliens from the fashion planet. He has (also) the talent to build a fantasy around every show in order to add a special feeling to the clothes that will be in the stores. So the men’s wools like herringbone, checked, tweed, pinstriped, or velvet for the jacket or suits were paired with equally masculine shirts and crew-neck knitwear, pussy bow shirts or turtlenecks. The pants were culottes (pleated or not) in the same men’s fabrics, the classic blue jeans, and above-the-knees length pocketed flat or pleated skirts. The very Slimane silhouette required only cuissardes or boots to make the ensemble perfect. 

Loewe Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION.

The era of self-promotion was the focus of Jonathan Anderson for Loewe. He went back to English, Flemish, French, Italian, and Spanish painting of the XVIth and XVIIth centuries where nobles and forgotten people were showing themselves at their best through the eyes of the portrayer for an ante litteram selfie. The collection had a strong flair of old Spanish aristocracy and traditions leaked in with the other countries’ aesthetics from the same centuries. There was a royalty in each look, from the rigour of blacks to the most colourful blue/yellow knitted marabou scarves and playful pom-pom looks. Anderson’s ability was to mix such different traditional styles in a unique and modern vision without being too folkloristic. As he said backstage, he worked on the reduction of the silhouette – balancing the clothing from the past with the today’s smartness. 

Balmain Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

Balmain was about self-assured women that are not afraid of being feminine and rebellious. Backstage, Creative Director Olivier Rousteing described his woman as a dangerous angel and troublemaker. In fact the spiky studs were everywhere as a kind of fashion armour to protect herself. The collection was big, as usual – proposing different styles for a precise woman: from the French girl with the beret, long skirt, and bouclé Chanel-esque jackets or elegant nude look dresses, to the nasty one wearing slouchy denim or wide leather pants and blousons. 

Issey Miyake Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.

Iconic Japanese brand Issey Miyake, designed by Yoshiyuki Miyamae, still struggle to find modernity. The research on colours and materials is very forward thinking, but the design seems completely in another time. In the ending era of fashion sportswear it would have been one of the coolest combinations, but unfortunately it didn’t happen. The new resin printed fabric, called “Blink,” created a beautiful colourful pattern, but it was not enough to add the coolness that this glorious brand deserves. 

Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

Conversely, Yohji Yamamoto served up a surprise. This time some dresses had applied hands (in the same material) showing a rebellious middle finger. He presented a timeless full black felt and knitwear collection that created a kind of morphing of everything. The constructions draped, paneled, and layered wool in order to create shapes and volumes. But the darkness of the colour Yamamoto uses is still romantic and soft. The only touches of colours were hand painted motifs on the back of some looks. 

Nina Ricci Fall/Winter 2019 show in Paris. Photo by Alessandro Garofalo for NOWFASHION.

Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter are the new Creative Directors at the house of Nina Ricci. Their debut show was promising, and we are all hoping that they will settle on a right way for this fashion house that has had much swapping over the last years. The duo has been educated in menswear so the challenge was bigger. But they applied their ability in tailoring to the women’s wardrobe and the result was sophisticated yet effortless: refined daywear with a twist and non-pompous delicate eveningwear.