Paris Day Four: The Pink Desert of Dior Homme

In the season of nature, gardens, flowers, sustainability messages, and disconnecting from devices to enjoy real life, Dior Homme, designed by English artistic director Kim Jones, created a shaded pink desert world built in a huge tent near the Institut du Monde Arabe to present the collection conceived in collaboration with American artist Daniel Arsham. Along with the work of Japanese artist Sorayama Hajime, the French Maison looked to an imaginary future as a source of inspiration.

Dior Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


After the charming Sorayama steel robot (which was turned into shiny accessories), a decadent perspective awaited us for the duration of the show. The staging and details were inspired by Arsham’s work “Future Relic” in which today’s objects look decayed as if they were archeological finds. The same technique has been applied to the setting and the Dior logo as monoliths in the sand. The collection was a celebration of the atelier’s savoir faire and their incredible capacity to turn fabrics into amazing shapes, honoring the memory and the future. The craftsmanship quality is undeniable incredible, but the collection wasn’t. Jones didn’t deliver any emotion in an aseptic show that seemed to celebrate more the partnership with German luxury luggage brand Rimowa (part of the LVMH group, as is Dior) than the creativity of the Maison. The pale palette colored three main themes that were presented: the fluid tailoring, the desert/urban leisurewear, and the see-through items, sometimes with the heritage newspaper print.


Berluti Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photos by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.

A symbiosis of modernity and heritage was the obsession of Kris Van Assche at Berluti. The Belgian artistic director imagined a man with contemporary masculinity – diverse, independent, and adventurous – expressed in increasingly fluid tailoring that was the leitmotif of the collection. Single- and double-breasted jackets and coats, also proposed in a sleeveless version, were the glue of all the looks, many of which had a schizophrenic palette that ranged from sorbet hues to acid nuances to bright and loud bold colors together with the signature tan leather. Suits and outerwear had details made with the signature handwriting in the most unexpected places (on the vertical cut on the front in the bottom trouser hems, to mention one). The collection seemed a bit disconnected, and the logo pushing looked too intrusive for a brand that has an indecipherable 18th century manuscript as its signature object.  

Junya Watanabe Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


On the other end of the spectrum, starting with the morning shows, the liberty and flowery trends were very strong. Junya Watanabe released a collection entitled “Nowhere Man” which describes a man that does not belong to any particular place. So, freedom of mind and spirit made him choose from many sources that also became collaborations. Watanabe was a pioneer in partnering with designers from other regions and turned the brand into an iconic laboratory where different worlds collide. This collection mixed garments, companies, and institutions that are part of our everyday lives: restaurants, bookstores, publications, liquors, beers, and even the Amsterdam Tulip Museum and brands with which he has been collaborating for a long time to create a signature look that is immediately recognizable. 

Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.


In a wonderful setting that hid the luxuriant plant decorations behind semitransparent panels for a shadow play effect, Jil Sander by Lucie and Luke Meier stressed the idea of finding the soul in minimalism – not to look cold, but to express the passion of how the garment has been done. The couple made their point well and delivered a sophisticated collection that speaks about nature (all natural fabrics and one organic banana fibre derivation) in a different way: no flower prints but an inner message working on the sharp men’s tailoring, yet making it more sensitive and fresh.

Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Comme des Garçons always shows a league apart. This season’s performance, entitled “Orlando – transformation and liberation through time,” is act one of three: the second will be next September for the women’s collection, and the final one in Vienna for the world premiere of “Orlando” composed by Austrian composer Olga Neuwirth and for which the brand designed the costumes. The title of the opera is a clear analysis of the gender and aesthetics fluidification. The models were wearing courtesan-style frocks, pearl necklaces, and Nike Air Max 95 shoes redesigned in pattern and silhouette. The shapes were all inspired by the XVIth century style wardrobe with modern details like pleated jupe-culottes and t-shirts with printed jewelry.

GmbH Spring/Summer 2020 menswear show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.


Berlin label GmbH, by Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik, offered their “Vision” (actually it's the title of the show itself) about integration. North is related to the element of Earth, East with Air, South and Fire, and West with Water were the inspiration that has been blended and delivered in a wardrobe that look a bit repetitive in terms of shapes and silhouettes, but coherent with the theme in terms of palette. In the co-ed show there was a lot of tailoring with the waist highlighted by harness-inspired details, reloaded workwear, and long dresses for women. The variety of the casting and the four cardinal points and elements were an interesting metaphor to put together different human beings under the same sky. The music, with Middle Eastern influences, completed the mood. GmbH is evolving in a good direction, adding its harsh and cool new German aesthetic, a less streetwear-oriented look.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
At Lanvin Corto Maltese Got the Look
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was blurring his vision and delivered a Hugo Pratt's Corto Maltese inspired collection marking a substantial design switch from the previous ones, that somewhat resembled his past job at the Spanish brand....
Bruno Sialelli, Creative Director at Lanvin, finally shook off the Loewe imprinting that was blurring his vision and delivered a Hugo Pratt's Corto Maltese inspired collection marking a substantial design switch from the previous ones, that somewhat resembled his past job at the Spanish brand. Sialelli continued the collaboration with cartoonists, started when he first took the helm of the...
Paris Unveils a Man in All His Greatness
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris,...
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
By Frédéric Martin-Bernard
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi made a statement by celebrating the 9th anniversary of his label Ami with a birthday party that notably featured accordion music, red velvet curtains, and movie seats. The following...
At the beginning of the menswear season in Paris, Alexandre Mattiussi made a statement by celebrating the 9th anniversary of his label Ami with a birthday party that notably featured accordion music, red velvet curtains, and movie seats. The following day, Tahliah Debrett Barnett, aka FKA Twigs, performed live during Valentino's latest menswear show....
Paris Menswear’s Final Bow
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez Palomo, that’s no excuse to forego church. The Andalusian designer reconnected with the Catholic heritage of his native Spain and turned a minimal concrete space in the 19ème arrondissement into...
It might be a Fashion Week Sunday, but for Alejandro Gómez Palomo, that’s no excuse to forego church. The Andalusian designer reconnected with the Catholic heritage of his native Spain and turned a minimal concrete space in the 19ème arrondissement into his own temple by having his models walk while carrying thuribles loaded with incense and Paschal...
Loewe's Playful Wardrobe
By Gianluca Cantaro
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative...
By Gianluca Cantaro
By Gianluca Cantaro
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative Director Jonathan Anderson after the Loewe show. "I imagined a child that plays with mom's ball gown in front of the mirror, giving a 2D effect to the 3D object.” Being positive is often...
"I wanted to be optimistic and joyful,” explained Creative Director Jonathan Anderson after the Loewe show. "I imagined a child that plays with mom's ball gown in front of the mirror, giving a 2D effect to the 3D object.” Being positive is often synonymous with being light-hearted, something that lets you enjoy life (and clothes) as it is without any...
Personal Narratives and Powerful Duos
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème...
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
By Elisabeta Tudor & Marta Represa
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème arrondissement, turning it into a minimal garden as a backdrop for her characteristic brand of Americana. Although the Atlanta-born designer debuted her business less than three years ago, she has already made a...
For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème arrondissement, turning it into a minimal garden as a backdrop for her characteristic brand of Americana. Although the Atlanta-born designer debuted her business less than three years ago, she has already made a name for herself by repurposing antique household fabrics — sourced at flea markets from New England...
Dior's Kim Jones Pays Homage to Judy Blame
By Gianluca Cantaro
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking...
By Gianluca Cantaro
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking British designer. He was an iconoclast and Jones drew copiously from this heritage. Due to the designer's passion for couture, the show was a parade of dandies wearing tailored moire silks with big...
Kim Jones for Dior Homme paid homage to friend and fashion icon Judy Blame, the forward-thinking British designer. He was an iconoclast and Jones drew copiously from this heritage. Due to the designer's passion for couture, the show was a parade of dandies wearing tailored moire silks with big cockades, precious wools both knitted and used for voluminous coats and dramatic opera gloves that...
The Art of Craftsmanship and Contemplation
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the...
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
By Marta Represa & Elisabeta Tudor
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the tailoring reboot. And that means one thing: it's Pierre Mahéo's moment. With his brand Officine Générale, the Parisian designer has always had a clear agenda: to make timeless casual chic...
If there is one indisputable trend this season, it's the tailoring reboot. And that means one thing: it's Pierre Mahéo's moment. With his brand Officine Générale, the Parisian designer has always had a clear agenda: to make timeless casual chic clothes meant to really be worn.    His suits are immediately recognizable and include tapered...
Vulnerable Masculinity and Versatile Workwear
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands...
By Elisabeta Tudor
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His...
While the first two days of the Paris' Fall/Winter 2020 menswear shows showed that several brands were turning to more formal styling, this third day was marked by a less assertive, more fluid take on masculinity.  Chinese designer Sean Suen explored fluid tailoring infused with dark romance. His light workwear pieces came with a hint of sophisticated tailoring. They were characterized by a...