Paris Fashion Week in Review

Paris, known as the capital of fashion, officially closed the Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear season. Paris Fashion Week marked the return of the silhouette among other emerging trends but also Dries Van Noten's 100th runway show, Maria Grazia Chiuri's second ready-to-wear offering for Dior and confirmed comebacks of heritage Houses such as Mugler and Nina Ricci, without forgetting the usual spectacle, adding sparkles in our eyes.

 


The Chanel Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show in Paris (by Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION)

 

PARIS GOT OFF TO A LADYLIKE START

For a good two years now, the rise of streetwear and the proliferation of it into high fashion, has changed our daily wardrobe aesthetic. It became about big inflated bombers and grungy shirts, or shirting that pretended to be two or three at once. Perhaps it comes down to the styling. Regardless, Paris just two days in, with collections from Aalto, Jacquemus, Guy Laroche and Rochas, has already offered something of a palette cleanse. It’s a return to the silhouette.

 

AND CELEBRATION OF ELEGANT STYLE CONTINUED WITH DRIES VAN NOTEN'S 100TH SHOW

100 runway shows, pfew! Now that's worthy of a standing ovation. For his one hundredth fashion show, Dries Van Noten based an entire collection on archived material, deciding to revisit his favorite patterns, from the late ‘90s till today. 

 

BUT LET'S LOOK AT SOME OTHER KEY TRENDS TO KNOW FROM PARIS

Complete with new-season bells and whistles, there were lots of great trousers taking a turn down the Paris catwalks while shocking, electric and macaroon, pink is taking the lead when it comes to the colour of the season as seen as in the Manish Arora, Neith Nyer and Lanvin collections, with the usual shimmering and bling numbers. And let's not forget the gossip around the last collection from Clare Waight Keller for Chloe.

 

DIOR AND OFF-WHITE WERE TWO STELLAR SHOWS OF THE SEASON

There’s something quite measured in the way that Maria Grazia Chiuri approaches the modern Dior woman. This season’s outing, her second ready-to-wear collection, seemed to combine a street sophistication. On his side, Off-White, which started four years ago, built itself on a streetwear sensibility: the kind that was very “now” then. But this season, whether this was an audition or not, Virgil Abloh's label stepped it up into new territory.

 

MEANWHILE WHILE BLUE WAS THE COLOUR THAT DOMINATED THE RUNWAYS

Paris has still got the blues. But blue is not just a feeling, it can also transgress into a powerful and aesthetically appealing symbol. In fact, this season many designers like Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior and David Koma at Mugler, interpreted these symbolically char hues.

 

HERITAGE HOUSE'S MUGLER & NINA RICCI MADE A COMEBACK

As the instalment of new creative directors go, there’s been a strong success rate in Paris of late. David Koma has seriously got to work at putting Mugler back on track with wearable clothes that both appeal to the hallmarks of the house as well as the customer. Meanwhile over at Nina Ricci, Guillaume Henry proved more than his worth for the house – this a sexy collection of real clothes.

 

DEMNA GVASALIA DEVELOPED HIS VISION AT BALENCIAGA

Aside from the signature layered looks - and some new babydoll apron-style dresses - there came a finale procession of ball gowns which marked the re-introduction of Balenciaga’s haute couture history. The introduction of this eveningwear strand by Demna Gvasalia added a new dimension and was a welcome push to show the potential of the brand, beyond that of the Vetements’ obscurity - much loved though the look still is.

 

FEMALE EMPOWERMENT CONTINUED TO DOMINATE CONVERSATION ON AND OFF RUNWAY

At Paris Fashion Week, designers and celebrities are all about female empowerment - in all shapes and sizes. In Paris, Céline's Phoebe Philo, Lanvin's Bouchra Jarrar and Dior's Maria Grazia Chiuri were the designers that established a strong femininity in their Fall/Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collections.

 

SOME OF PARIS' FAVOURITE NAMES DID WHAT THEY DO BEST, AND IT WAS GREAT

By now, as much as you expect to see the real emergence of the new season’s mood – or trends – you come to see established houses such as Manish Arora, Isabel Marant, Alexandre Vauthier and Sacai doing what they do best. Because in Paris, there’s more than one fashion route to follow.

 

WHILE CHANEL CONQUERED SPACE, AND SOCIAL MEDIA FEEDS ON FINAL DAY OF FASHION MONTH

The space race was on for Chanel's lunar landing of a show, going where no fashion brand has gone before. Setting the scene (for they are always spectacular chez Chanel): a rocket waiting to lift off. Spoiler alert, it did for the finale.

 

AND LOUIS VUITTON INVADED THE LOUVRE, ENDING THE SEASON IN FULL SPLENDOR

Louis Vuitton is a house whose heritage resides in travel, and so Nicholas Ghesquiere used this as a basis to explore the former, staging the Fall/Winter 2017 Vuitton show at the Musee du Louvre, "a borderless space where culture invites everyone to embark on an adventure".

 

Read the latest fashion features and trend reports in NOWmagazine.

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