For the most part, dresses are the mainstay of couture. Pretty princess dresses. There’s no end of them to fulfil any kind of whimsical fairy-tale fantasy you may have. But they’re not for everyone. And when that’s the case, you can look to a tuxedo instead – this season there have been plenty of options to provide antithesis to those for whom frou is just not for them. Because, let’s face it, it’s not always the case. And a power tux can be just as stunning – if not more so as it becomes sexy, too – as a gown.
Alexandre Vauthier gave us some seriously stealth options: cropped little jackets, mesh vests beneath, sequin-strewn trousers below; mesh bodies with cummerbunds and jackets with pronounced shoulder shapes. These were sexy and took the sinuous silhouettes of the gown but transposed them onto separates, though they at times bordered more on being under garments as opposed to outer.
The Giorgio Armani Privé Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2016 show, Paris, by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION
Of course, tailoring is key to an Armani collection at the best of times – and Prive a line then that merely amps that up to the most elegant and refined options. Trousers were shapely and voluminous and jackets single-breasted and neat with a bow twist to pull them into shape at the front.
The Yanina Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2016 show, Paris, by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
While at Yanina, the Russian couture label that launched in 1993, the tux remained in the same camp as Vauthier: svelte in shape, sheer in execution. The go-to words for designer, Yulia Yanina, were “powerful,” “energetic,” “strength,” and passion.” She added to this by using the image of a peacock throughout – feathers as adornments and peacock eyes for patchwork.
The Ulyana Sergeenko Haute-Couture Fall/Winter 2016 show, Paris, by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION
Bringing a more daywear sensibility to the trousersuit table was Ulyana Sergeenko, hers a collection that celebrated the youth of the Soviet generation in the Sixties and boasted a wide-leg style.