The overriding feel of Milan was that this season it was young. And so by comparison, stepping into the Balenciaga boardroom that Demna Gvasalia had created for his second menswear show (see below), felt very grown-up. Paris doesn't mess about. But one day in and it has already thrown up some fun trends. Here they are:
Balenciaga Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Collection in Paris (by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
A Day At The Office
Going to work just got more fun - or certainly more fashionable. Demna Gvasalia reworked the idea of corporate office dressing at Balenciaga for a collection full of covetable products and gimmick cool. Status stuff, alongside oversized and purposely awkward proportion overcoats and jackets he gave us slogan sweatshirts - some of which read parent company "Kering" over Balenciaga; faux shopping bags as actual bags - a trick we've seen from Chanel in the past, too; and emblazoned scarves - again bound to be another cult buy. Because this is what Gvasalia - the wunderkind behind Vetements - is very good at doing, what he built his own brand on in fact. There were some fun glitter belts styled with jackets worn open; and some super chunky-sized Balenciaga Triple-S sneakers that with their extended heels had an Eighties appeal to them. It was the anti-suit - and there was a lot to like about that.
Walter Van Beirendonck Fall Winter 2017 Menswear Collection in Paris (by Regis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Mickey Mouse Hands
Dangling from the arms of suits, huge big hands were the calling card of this collection from Walter Beirendonck, who entertained with an Insta-worthy performance by Seida Pass, a merry drumming group of dressed-up folk. His collection wasn't as outlandish as their garb - with their horns and Game of Thrones-like furs - but it was amply full of these huge hands to make suits into cartoon proportions, as well as vibrant scarves wrapped up and worn beneath caps, sparkling with brooches, and glitter makeup on the eye.
Valentino Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris (by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
Man Clutch Bags
This was a sharp collection from Pierpaolo Piccioli for his first solo menswear outing following the split from his design partner Maria Grazia Chiuri who went to Dior last year. And so instead he teamed up with the artist Jamie Reid to create a range of patchwork slogans that read: "Beauty is your birth right" and "Claim your heritage", which peppered a collection that also heavily promoted the worth of the man bag – more specifically the man's clutch bag. With almost every look there came the neat little configuration in gorgeous pastel luxe shades to match that of the overall collection. Overcoats were standout and there was a sporty feel with trainers and caps to complete the looks which felt more defined than last season. There was a gentle anarchy to be found.
Y Project Fashion Show Menswear Collection Fall Winter 2017 in Paris (by Anna Palermo for NOWFASHION)
Y/Project, among one of the most buzzed about names on the schedule, went to town with turn-ups: how many can you fit on one pair of trousers? According to Glenn Martens, a lot! They climbed up legs and were pasted over and up each other. It was a theme throughout the collection - reworking details to make them look-at-me stuff. Bombers unravelled at the sleeve into rippling shapes and everything had a little deconstruction about it - utility jackets with fur that unfurled and twisted tracksuits.
Haider Ackermann Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Fashion Show in Paris (http://nowfashion.com/haider-ackermann-menswear-fall-winter-2017-paris-20768)
Punk It Up
Valentino called on the skills of artist Jamie Reid - who is known for his album cover work with the Sex Pistols. That's punk spot number one. Number two came at Haider Ackermann. Where last season the designer went more Ziggy Stardust, this time he put houndstooth and leather with glitter and shine and leopard to make for an anarchic Teddy Boy.