Paris: Our Favorite Rebels in Disguise
The latest Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2018 offering was a true feast for the eyes – and a platform for fashion designers to challenge their audience and Couture clientele with impressively sophisticated, innovative, and sometimes outlandish designs. We've compiled a few or our favorite looks fresh off the runway for you.
Maison Margiela Fall/Winter 2018 Artisanal show in Paris. Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION.
(Ankle-)Selfie, anyone? If Haute Couture has its master, it is undoubtedly John Galliano. Building up on his previous Artisanal collection, where Mr. Galliano reflected on our generation's on-going obsession with social media and the way it has been taking its toll on our everyday lives, he tapped into Margiela's signature deconstructivism, while offering conceptual and outlandish evening outfits with a multitude of layering – the layers were referring to the multiple social media filters that we add up to modify our looks – which featured integrated led-screens, and – believe it or not – cell-phone holders that were tied to the models' feet. It was a very "Brave New World"-Aldous-Huxley-ish moment, to say the least.
Sonia Rykiel Fall/Winter 2018 L'Atelier show in Paris. Photo by Amandine Hui Boissy for NOWFASHION.
This season, Julie de Libran introduced her first collection for L'Atelier, Sonia Rykiel's new Haute Couture line, and she did not disappoint! Playing on Sonia Rykiel's signature style spirit of female revolution and free expression, de Libran introduced sensual and easygoing evening looks and managed to make knitwear look sexy again – some of the styles were somewhat reminiscent of Robin Hood's iconic look, but there's nothing wrong with that. "The challenge was to create pieces that were special, but anti-precious," de Libran explained on a rebellious note.
Celia Kritharioti Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Celia Kritharioti's Haute Couture designs were a particular eye-catcher this season. The owner of the oldest Greek fashion house, established in 1906, infused classic evening and cocktail numbers with a refreshing contemporary twist. Her fairly-tale gowns and sensual dresses were quite red-carpet worthy – and so was her final take on bridal wear. Dreamy, and yet, fierce.
Viktor & Rolf Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Regis Colin Berthelier for NOWFASHION.
Viktor and Rolf's latest Haute Couture was a celebration of wearable art and exquisitely executed craftsmanship. In fact, the Dutch designer-duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren celebrated the most iconic looks from their past 25 years by rethinking their initial Couture designs with a certain twist. The look that we particularly loved and that managed to revive sweet memories? The tulle dress devoured by giant holes that made a nod to Viktor & Rolf's Spring/Summer 2010 ready-to-wear collection, which they showcased in Paris and featured Alison Goldfrapp singing on stage (literally one of my favorite fashion moments of all time).
Fendi Fall/Winter 2018 Haute Couture show in Paris. Photo by Valerio Mezzanotti for NOWFASHION.
Sublime traditions and new realities were Karl Lagerfeld's guiding threads at Fendi. Mr. Lagerfeld's looks were reminiscent of a "poor, little rich girl" from past times – in other words, Edie Sedgwick, as they played with a rebellious party girl look from the 1960s, while channeling a certain melancholia that was expressed through the neo-classical rigor of Karl Lagerfeld's designs. Think frayed organza, fringed chiffon, and a lot of lace and embroideries that created a featherweight surface design in sorbet hues.