Paris & the Dynamite Dress

WHERE London and Milan were about playing dress-up, up up, Paris isn’t interested. Send a damn good dress down the catwalk and the job is done. There are no fairy lights, bells, or whistles required here. Leave the accessories at home and show off the wonder of the one-piece. C’est tout.

 


(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

The point was cemented most poignantly when Guillaume Henry sent out a lithe and sinuous sheath of a red dress that looked as though it had been dunked in rubies – it caught the light just so, sparkling like an exotic skin with a divine density that spoke purely of glamour, sexiness, and a deep sophistication. Swoon and swoon. The rest of the Nina Ricci collection did much the same – played out through coats or sheer blouses and little bras – but it was this dress, this one dress, that really did the talking: a slit down its front and another little reveal for a slit up the leg. Sexy.

 

(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

But look around and in Paris dresses are dynamite. Roland Mouret, a maestro when it comes to the garment, sent out a series of black and red velvet numbers that boasted lace sleeves and panel work, asymmetric affixations to give them, and him, literally a new direction. You would want one of these in your wardrobe: you know you’d look – and feel – great in one. Frankly, any single one.  

 


(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

At John Galliano, Bill Gaytten made a nod to Jane Austen for naïve and pretty empire-line designs. A shape that has had a decided absence from fashion of late, it felt fresh and modern to see – the point of an empire line is that it decides the rest of the outfit above and around it, its silhouette specific, commanding, if not a little awkward. All of which here worked to make a collection feel surprisingly contemporary, despite the historical references.

 


(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)

 

When it came to dresses at Balenciaga, Demna Gvasalia, the big new and newsiest fashion hire, made his point with frills and spills of spiralling florals – they were a luxe step-up from his already covetable Vetements creations, which are still proving to be an industry wardrobe favourite (just look at the street style snaps). They’ll be eyeing these up for sure.

 


(Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)

 

Meanwhile at Chloe, another dress brand but on the other end of the spectrum from Roland Mouret, gave us great pretty floral-dotted and floaty numbers. Despite being an Autumn/Winter season, these had summer written all over them. Pack one of these and it’s unlikely you’d actually want to be wearing anything else on your holiday.

 

(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)

 

On the more fashion-conceptual side of things, Comme des garçons went with armour-like dress constructions splaying with blooms and then layers of whipped-cream-drapery so that each confection that came out looked just like that: a confection. Speaking of which, complete with candy-floss-hair and/or headpiece styling, Rick Owens sent out a dress-heavy collection – strapless bandeau styles among those that twisted and turned as they draped into place.

 

 

VIDEO | ROCHAS READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS

VIDEO | ROCHAS READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISDiscover the collection online now.#Rochas #FW16 #PFW

Posted by Nowfashion.com on Thursday, March 3, 2016

 

At Rochas, it was that whimsical bohemian vibe that fashion is wallowing in right now (looking at you, Gucci): dresses were light wisps of chiffon with ruffles and trails of ribbon. They had a tomboyish charm. It was about the dress and a pair of socks and shoes.

Red carpet favourite Giambattista Valli is up today – he’ll no doubt join the list.

 

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