Patch It Up and Start Again

On the third day of Milan Fashion Week, designers played with differing aesthetics and harder juxtaposing flavours with softer materials.

“I would go out tonight, but I haven't got a stitch to wear,” lamented Morrissey in ‘This Charming Man’, one of the songs patched up in the soundtrack of Antonio Marras’ fall-winter 2020-21 show. Unlike Morrissey, Marras’ show had a lot to offer (the designer showcased 84 looks!) and merged a punkish British attitude to his usual Sardinian aesthetic. This season, the designer decided to celebrate his heritage by narrating a story set in his place of birth and unveiling it on the runway. “I wanted to tell the story of the Domus of the Jana, a house in a tiny village in the middle of Sardinia where all women gathered to sew, embroider, trim and work the loom, recovering everything they could find, from feathers from large birds to dried flowers, nets, fabric scraps and dried leaves,” explained Marras backstage. Unsurprisingly, the designer made use of all of the above, mixing and matching them with a substantial amount of different fabrics – tulle dresses were layered over heavy cotton flannels, puff shouldered jackets in Prince of Wales checks were embroidered with lace and faux fur, precious brocades were used to construct overcoats and dresses, eco-furs were used as a base for pencil skirts and so on and so forth. 

At Iceberg, creative director James Long explored the world of grunge. Taking inspiration from some of his favourite muses, Bjork and Kate Bush, the designer worked on creating elongated silhouettes by fusing lots of different pieces and always managing to add a touch of his London heritage to the Milanese brand he designs. “I wanted to tailor with the piumino and I played with knitwear quite a lot this season, in order to elevate streetwear and create some kind of hardcore romance,” stated the designer backstage. Knitwear, in particular, was studied diligently, as technical and three-dimensional details were added for a quilted effect. Angora macramè, mohair with tufts and sequins were added to softer silhouettes, lace and tulle were mixed together and juxtaposed to bombers and sweaters.

What would clothes look if we enhanced from mini to macro? That is one of the questions Marco De Vincenzo asked himself ahead of his fall-winter 2020/21 show. A collection enhancing and celebrating fashion details by exaggerating them on a macro scale. “Everything happening in the collection is based on the principle of enlarging details that would normally be smaller and vice versa,” stated the designer backstage. “I think this is the literal translation of what a drawing of my niece would look like.” Macro details were found in jackets which were characterized by giant pockets and oversized buttons, silk satin collars on blouses slid well beyond the shoulders, floral brooches were enlarged; in contrast, shorts became high-waisted culottes and mini skirts turned even shorter. Magnifying lenses were turned into earrings while super tiny mini bags cinched the waists of many of the looks.

This season, Damir Doma expanded upon the menswear offering he had presented at the Frankie Morello shop in January by presenting his second womenswear collection for the brand. “We chose a song called Come Together by band Primal Scream to communicate our need for diversity,” stated the designer backstage. “Frankie Morello is a very diverse brand and this season I wanted my ‘cyber ravers’ to come together freely at a utopic after-dark gathering.” In point of fact, the cyber raver aesthetic came through strongly as body-conscious dresses and tops clung to the wearer, graphic scarabeo patterns were added to technical knits, chains were added on square-toed boots and security straps on quilted coats. Tailored elements were also added to mix through blazers with vinyl panels and long coats in technical materials.

SHARE
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Pinterest
SIMILAR ARTICLES
Hiroshi Fujiwara Designs Moncler's Latest Collection
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with...
By Rebecca Hitchon
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story...
Italian luxury brand Moncler rolled out today a new collection designed in collaboration with globally influential streetwear designer and Japanese hip hop DJ Hiroshi Fujiwara."I wanted to create a new standard, delivering the message that Moncler loves the mountain, which is where the story started," said Fujiwara about the 7 Moncler Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara collection. This message is...
Kering Sets New Biodiversity Targets
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new...
By Alice Ierace
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only...
Global luxury group Kering has announced a dedicated biodiversity strategy with a series of new targets in order to achieve a 'net positive' impact on biodiversity by 2025.Aligned with its long-term commitment to sustainability, the group’s new biodiversity strategy outlines steps to not only minimize biodiversity loss across its global supply chains but also to support nature and create net...
ALIITA: A Sparkling Family Affair
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the...
By Elisa Carassai
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery...
Family affairs are known to be a tradition amongst Italian fashion brands. The Missoni's, the Fendi's, the Ferragamo's and the Castiglioni's, are just a few of the renown names that come to mind when thinking of the fashion empires that keep it in the family. One of these is Aliita, the jewellery brand established by Venezuelan-born and Milan-based designer Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni with the...
Loewe Releases Divine-Inspired Collection
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor...
By Alice Ierace
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained...
Loewe has released its limited-edition Divine collection, honouring drag queen and actor Divine. “[Divine] was absolutely out of the ordinary. He lived an intense life as a man, performer, character and as a body. For me, it is the embodiment of the principle of self-determination,” explained Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the house.The collection consists primarily of three t-shirts...
H&M Launches New CHIMI Collab
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear...
By Rebecca Hitchon
By Rebecca Hitchon
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the...
H&M has announced a collaboration with Stockholm-based eyewear brand CHIMI for a summer menswear collection. The CHIMI x H&M collection, which became exclusively available on the H&M website earlier this month, marks CHIMI’s first venture into menswear, after gaining success among the Insta-generation for their “inclusive, fun, progressive” sunglasses designs, in the words of Creative Director...
MQBMBQ Celebrates Black Queerness in all its Different Forms
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer...
By Sasha Regazzoni
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of...
The new three-week long fundraising project denounces white queer racism and black queer antagonism through photography, literature and film.  Jamaican-born creative Jordan Anderson has long felt concern for the worryingly stagnant direction of the fashion and arts industries and the lack of black LGBTQ+ representation within them, hence deciding to take matters into his own hands. “My Queer...
Y/PROJECT's Eclectic Versatility
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the...
By Alice Ierace
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly...
If there is one thing 2020 has taught us so far is that the show must go on. Even within the fashion industry, months of lockdown and uncertainty haven’t stopped designers and creatives alike to share their work and talent with the world. That's exactly why, on a sunny June afternoon, Glenn Martens gave me a personal preview of his latest SS21 collection...
New Coalition To Tackle Racism and Discrimination In The Fashion Industry
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address...
By Rebecca Hitchon
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles,...
A coalition of more than 400 Black editors, stylists, models and executives is set to address systematic racism and discrimination within the fashion and beauty industries when it launches next month.Co-founded by Teen Vogue Editor-In-Chief Lindsay Peoples Wagner and publicist Sandrine Charles, the Black in Fashion Coalition wants to concentrate industry efforts to fight racism through...