Patrik Ervell Menswear Fall Winter 2015 New York
Do guys really want something completely new every season? Is it really all that necessary? That was a thought that occurred at Patrik Ervell's Fall 2015 showing. A designer that we've called sensible and utilitarian in the past, Ervell’s range looked familiar to brand loyalists.
Yes, there was quite a difference in gait and environment for today's outing, but things were in no way a 180 from what we've seen before from the designer, as sometimes happens in womenswear. The runway featured greenery and neon lighting in the middle of it inspired by the same Barbican Center and Brutalist architecture that inspired the designer for the collection. And as for the way the models were walking, it was due to a chunkier shoe worn by each. With a thick sole and all in black, they took a bit extra in maneuvering up and down the runway.
Other than that, the other component that seemed different for this season was the columnar cut of some of the trousers, fitting as only at this size could they fit over the shoes. They slipped in well with Ervell's typical lineup of flight jacket, bombers done in a teddy fur and clean, hooded rain jackets. The finale coat, a sharply cut overcoat, brought in a polyurethane fabric we remember from the last two seasons, presenting it in a slightly more formal style. "I always think that you can sort of put the end of one collection in front of the beginning of the next and it would be one long continuous thread," Ervell said in the American Express Lounge afterwards. And what a sensible, pragmatic and market-appropriate thread it is.