“Fur is a little bit of a challenge for menswear,” said Patrik Ervell backstage after his Fall 2014 showing. “Fur for men is a little gross I think. But I think the way it’s done here is not.” And the way it was done was with a woven wool textile from a German company that’s been making teddy bears since the early 20th century. The result looked almost like a young man’s version of a woman’s teddy coat – though Ervell was pretty adamant that wasn’t the coat he had in mind, - in a cropped, bomber silhouette. Those fleece jackets came down the runway brush died and seemingly iridescent matched with what seemed like office-minded trousers.
Ervell has always been a fairly pragmatic designer though, his laurels resting on wearable, utilitarian-focused pieces – we see that here with the zippered cargo pockets on jogging pants, and a popover with a front zip pocket, sleeker than any kangaroo pouch – overlaid with his slightly geeky, scientific riffs. This season science crops up in the breathable membranes on the charcoal wool suiting.
“I think that each season for me is like an evolution, I don’t think men dress [for the season,]” said the designer. “That feels a bit hokey.”