Paul & Joe Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
Sophie Albou doesn't need to worry, her children Paul & Joe are growing up fast and are in good health: with a promising retail development in 2012, on the same basis as in 2011, including several shop openings in Japan and Russia, but also in France – the brand's headquarters – one can be sure that the message of Parisian-made bohemian-chic will be spread out in the world.
Nonchalance is nothing new to the Paul & Joe design inventory and this season again, Albou proved that she is the master of comfy tailoring. The show evolved from a.m. to p.m., starting with pajama like office looks – just the perfect style for all the ladies out there, who rather feel like working on their laptops whilst staying in bed. Think masculine-looking pleated pants paired with a silky baby doll-like tops and a softly tailored tweed smoking jacket in glen-check print – the whole outfit being sported on high-heels with a chunky fur collar. Talking about fur: the slightly oversized patchwork fox coats were particularly worth-watching. On it's side, the smooth color-palette was mainly made out of beige, cream, taupe and hints of caramel and yellow, that underlined the softness of Albou's looks.
For the night, the warm hues were put aside, as the designer opted for more audacious notes such as iridescent silver, ink blue, anthracite and ivory that she used for her desirable officer coats, sported with a short turtleneck dress and somewhat kinky, tight over-knee boots. Pants were slightly fitted and cropped in order to match a sleek one-button tuxedo, that was crafted in the same silvery diamond-printed fabric. But sophisticated party queens in the audience might have rather opted for Albou's last theme for this autumn-winter 2013/14 -rich, golden brocade that was declined on billowing, floor-sweeping skirts and trenches.
According to the official statement, “Young, fresh, retro and colorful” are the leading elements of Paul & Joe's identity. Albou's detractors might argue that this sounds like an over-the-top note of bourgeois-bohème and that the collections lack in creativity – but why change the concept, if the business is rock solid?
- Elisabeta Tudor