Paul Smith Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2012 London

Paul Smith said that the Fall Winter 2012 collection emphasised what he does best: pieces to wear for seasons to come, to be matched with what he’s created in seasons past. ‘‘There is a continuity in my brand and in this collection I’m doing what I do best.’’ That familiar Paul Smith route included tailored coats and easy pants and sweaters.

The first few looks had a lounge-y languid feel, as if inspired by mens dressing gowns. Boyish shapes ruled: pants were tapered and slightly cropped, sweaters were slim and straight. Jackets and coats were androgynous in cut; and the brighter colours for which the designer is popular were refined to rich, deep jewel tones. ‘‘The collection is inspired by my love of beautiful tailoring and the female form, but not in a flesh-exposing way,’’ said Smith.

The show contained sharp pieces for the working woman’s wardrobe- white and checked buttondown shirts, turtlenecks for layering, and modest kneelength skirts (accessorized with eyeglasses to drive the sober tone in). There was an emphasis on the suit that went all the way to a deconstructed tuxedo dress, sans ribbon. A grey pantsuit with caramel ombré said it best: this collection was designed for a woman who was serious, not precious, down her totes and loafers. Still- and thankfully- there were hints of glamour and femininity in details of embroidery and a glass beaded dress.

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-Ria de Borja