I can't say I knew much about the Dutch designer Peet Dullaert before reading a recent NOWFASHION interview in which he talked up graduating from the prestigious fashion program at ArtEZ in Arnheim and seeking the advice of Pierre Bergé.
"I asked him for an opinion of my work which was scary as I knew he would be honest," he told NOWFASHION after his show on Friday.
Bergé appeared to like what he did and it gave the designer the confidence to launch his brand, which is now in its third Paris season, he said.
He lives in Amsterdam.
One could see something of his home city in his designs and in his choice of models: tall, pale women who he inspected and sent out backstage, as photographers snapped away.
They had a touch of Amsterdam about them these women. They looked pale and haunted, as if they had drifted in from a dope filled club in the city of Red Lights.
And the designs had a fragility about them, a vagueness, as if the ladies had clutched something to wear in a drug enhanced state.
But Dullaert was lucid about his intentions. "With the plissé designs you can almost scrunch them up into a ball and put them in your suitcase without taking up much room which is what people want these days with so much travel," he said.
(Thank you, Peet. Please fill my suitcase which doubles as my wardrobe at least half the year.)
The designs which came in tulle, voile and silk crepe Georgette, looked slightly Roman. Some were cut like skinny togas or draped around the body in the form of a one-shoulder dress or top.
The colors looked like a wintery Italian wine or something from an old Dutch drawing room or a dark Rueben's painting.
Think the blood red of a toga dress given an urban twist through a pairing with trousers. Or consider a deep green shimmering one- shoulder top, loosely fitted like a makeshift outfit.
In his show notes, the designer said the pieces were set to enhance and show off the shapes of the body, like the bare shoulders seen in several designs.
This is a summer collection.
But the dark colors were not pretty colors and not especially easy, like the girls who wore them who looked disenchanted with the forest of life.
There were some brighter pieces like an orange summer coat that looked masculine to get home in one piece in the dark hours of night.
The brand has several stores in the Arab world and also sells online.