Personal Narratives and Powerful Duos

For her second foray into Paris Fashion Week, Emily Bode chose a venue in the 16ème arrondissement, turning it into a minimal garden as a backdrop for her characteristic brand of Americana. 

Although the Atlanta-born designer debuted her business less than three years ago, she has already made a name for herself by repurposing antique household fabrics — sourced at flea markets from New England to Paris — in a truly unique way. 

This time around, the theme of her collection was the unconventional education of her friend and collaborator, artist Benjamin Bloomstein, who grew up in a former Shaker village in the State of New York and spent his whole childhood in nature. 

This translated into quilt patchwork trousers and workwear jackets, gorgeous striped and checkered woolen suits, ensembles entirely embroidered with vintage boy scout badges, intarsia knits, and suede and calf hair coats. A focus of accessories — with babouche-like leather shoes and a selection of oversized totes, sailor bags, and a canvas bag in the shape of a fish — completed a collection that felt as commercially viable as irresistibly beautiful.

Earlier this day, Namacheko’s Dilan Lurr proclaimed his love for visual arts and filmmaking — and especially for the work of the American photographer Gregory Crewdson — through a collection imbued with experimental aesthetics, all while creating timeless pieces that can be worn on a daily basis. 

While his previous collections were quite introspective —Dilan Lurr used to reflect upon his Kurdish origins and Swedish upbringing — his latest offering for Namacheko examined the complex and nuanced creative tensions that arose from his collaboration with Crewdson and made for a poetic final result.

Later that day, another creative duo made quite an impression: the South Korean designers (mother and daughter) Woo and Katie Chung unveiled their first women’s ready-to-wear collection together with their latest menswear offering. And needless to say, Wooyoungmi's inaugural women’s outfits were as attractive as the brand's easy-to-wear pieces for men, whose casualness were expressed through wide, fluid fits that were punctuated by utilitarian details and an intense color palette of lapis lazuli, amethyst and tangerine hues.

White Mountaineering’s Yosuke Aizawa, for his part, explored a sartorial universe that focused on both city and nature. In this context, his menswear silhouettes were playing with the structures and layering of athletic outerwear. Standout pieces included thermal protective jackets — particularly one jacket in soft pink and earthy colors — and parkas created in collaboration with Italian high-end outerwear brand Colmar for its A.G.E project. 

Colmar is no stranger to edgy collaborations with indie brands, as it formerly caused quite some ink to flow by releasing a capsule collection with Hood by Air’s Shayne Oliver. “It’s about a man traveling to define himself,” commented Yosuke Aizawa in his collection’s notes. One thing is sure: Paris' latest menswear shows have so far served as a creative laboratory for designers to express their renewed, personal take on masculinity.

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