The last season in which the shows will work in the way we (the fashion press and those who take an interest outside of them) traditionally know them to, next season will see the first play-out of the new see-now-buy-now system, as instigated by Burberry and Tom Ford. Where they have gone, many others have followed. Of course, not every fashion house is adopting said framework. But if they were and doing so this season, what would be on our see-now-buy-now shopping list? We take a premature seasonal trolley dash and pick the pieces from the runway we've seen and would like to buy right now:
VIDEO | COURRÈGES READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | COURRÈGES READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISPosted by Nowfashion.com on Wednesday, March 2, 2016
All things versatile and transformable inspired the Courrèges designer-duo for their March 2016 collection. “Why not imagine smart garments? Isn't this the real luxury?” they asked in an official statement. Well, yes it is. Immediacy, functionality, and timelessness are of increasing importance as fashion's frantic space is continuously being questioned by the industry's A-list. And, in reaction to this, a third of Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant's new collection is already available. Go and get it.
Or should we rather call it Maison Galliano? All jokes aside – this season's offering of Maison Margiela was like a breath of fresh air and John Galliano was clearly at his best. Clashing styles, shapes, colors, and attitudes and fusing them into one most coherent, appealing, and dramatic silhouette has been Galliano's trademark for decades. In fact, he has revived his signature style at Margiela, while respecting the brand's legacy, its take on deconstruction and avant-garde, and adding his very own sense of eclecticism. More of it, please!
It takes a while to materialize your own design ideas into a collection that strikes the right balance between wearable design, craftsmanship, and authenticity – and this season, AALTO's Tuomas Merikoski got to that point. The Paris based Finnish designer presented his third collection for the Fall/Winter 2016 season, and there simply wasn't anything that wouldn't sweep you off your feet. Street-wear infused tailoring? Check. 90s goodness? Check. Bold, bright, and powerful colors and shapes? Triple-check – and triple-love.
It's 5am and Léa Peckre's girls are still raving – on the runway. In tune with fashion's current obsession for slacker-ish, post-soviet, and neo-gothic styles – say hello to Gosha Rubchinskiy and VETEMENTS – Peckre provided her very own take on the trend and channelled her inner party animal from a.m. to p.m., drawing inspiration from the first métro in the morning – a moment of confrontation between early risers and party goers.
Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten – the Belgian master of contemporary subtleness, sensuality, and style mix-matching – always excels to say the least. This season, he paid hommage to the decadence of the Marchesa Casati, an Italian patroness of the arts in the early 20th century, who had a penchant for all things purry – leopard prints and patterns were everywhere, embracing his à la garçonne silhouettes with one-of-a-kind surface embellishments and decorative elements and accessories. La Féline comes to our minds. Momentum.
VIDEO | LEMAIRE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | LEMAIRE READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISPosted by Nowfashion.com on Thursday, March 3, 2016
There's a lyrical ease and simplicity about the work of Christophe Lemaire. It's what he brought to the house of Hermes during his tenure there and what he continues to explore with even more tangible a tone in his own eponymous line. There was a monastic element to this collection, historical religious riffs in dressing that spanned blouses and robes and great coats and coat robes. They're the sort of one-stop clothes that you never need to think about because they do all of that for you. They make you look good, put together, well turned out, and with an added punch of style nous. This jacket stood out for us as one we’d like to buy now (and Paris is just the right side of chilly to facilitate that for us at the moment).
Holographic spangles, wispy bows, and ruffles trailing like shadows to render delicate floral or sheer dresses; Alessandro Dell'Acqua finally dropped any of those slightly odd and unnecessary bells and whistles we've had in the past (industrial belts spring to mind) in favour of pure romance and elegance with a zesty undertone that brought his Rochas collection a youthful charm. Dresses were loose and Twenties tomboyish; there was that wonderfully awkward but on point styling when it came to socks and shoes and the girls' hair which was tousled-tangled. There were the right amount of frills when required, but easily a retro masculinity and Seventies palette when not. For us, this dress sums up the collection and is on our list.
A more sedate offering from Adam Andrascik this season, his third at the storied Parisian house, and this was a collection made more for selling in mind and more likely to a pre-existing clientele than perhaps the newer one that would have been captured through the first two outings. Now we can see what he can do (and has done) and a repertoire is being made. He needs to decide where to take that. Neat dresses with fancy techniques, dinky boleros, and stealth aviator jackets, these were the pieces that worked best – the latter of which goes on the list.
Is it a skirt? Is it a shirt? Is it a dress or all or none of the above? That's what baffled and simultaneously seduced you when it came to Yang Li's Fall/Winter collection. Where other designers have nominated to layer through styling this season (London and Milan being the main culprits of this), Li opted to make it part of the creation from the outset, which overall brought a more succinct train of thought for unfurling pieces that tore off into place here and there. Nice work.
VIDEO | Y PROJECT READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | Y PROJECT READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISPosted by Nowfashion.com on Wednesday, March 2, 2016
Glenn Martens has risen to fashion fame over the last year – his work at Y Project has chimed at a time when street-urban-unisex dressing has hit the big time and when Vetements' Demna Gvasalia is leading the charge. Martens, Royal Academy of Arts Antwerp-trained, has also landed himself a spot on the LVMH Designer Prize shortlist. He's having a pretty good time – which showed in this season's collection too. It had the street-ness still and wandered towards a millennium vibe too – billowing and layered silhouettes, a utilitarianism, and wide-legs with pointy shoes. And for girls who have a burgeoning collection of sweatshirts, this one sans sleeve won us right over.