The brands and the pieces we'd like to buy straight from the runway in the third instalment of our catwalk trolley dash in-keeping with fashion's new penchant for seeing now and buying now. If only...
VIDEO | NINA RICCI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | NINA RICCI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISDiscover all the looks online now.#NinaRicci #PFWPosted by Nowfashion.com on Sunday, March 6, 2016
As soon as that ruby-dipped dress sauntered out on to the catwalk, the fate or Guillaume Henry’s third collection for Nina Ricci was sealed: a hit. Last season he went a little too dark and vampy, having trod the fine new-designer-at-a-heritage-house line just right for his first outing. But this season, post amped-up vamp, he was back on track – creating a boudoir-bra-orientated collection with sexy demure dresses and great overcoats. It was classic and sassy and perfectly embodied what a Nina Ricci collection should be. That red dress, though, that was the winner.
(Régis Colin-Berthelier for NOWFASHION)
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
In his first collection taking more control of the legendary London label, Andreas Kronthaler went back to its die-hard punk roots and left behind some of that overt historicism that Viv herself so very much championed. It was a wise choice and made for a refreshing revamp of a label that, though much loved, sometimes felt like it was spinning the same wheel over and over. It was young and it was fun and ideally tapped into that Paris-new-guard wave that is so washing over Paris right now. The difference here, of course, is that Vivienne Westwood as a brand is (anti)establishment – she was, is, and has always been punk. This was a great new chapter – the oversized jackets were top of the lot to snag as soon as we can. And maybe a crown, because why not?
(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
It was Oliver Twist meets Jane Austen’s Emma for Bill Gaytten – who sent out a collection that put the empire line back in our minds. And it sat nicely. The military jackets and oversized outerwear were fine and nice, but it was the dresses – all lace and sheer, pretty and with puffed little sleeves – that really stood out. The one we want most? Edie Campbell was wearing it to close the show.
(Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION)
There are some designers you go to for certain things. Roland Mouret is a dress man. He always has been – and we thank him very much for that. Among his Autumn/Winter 2016 offering, you’ll find yourself wanting the red velvet numbers that began the show – and then later on a green column style with black lace sleeves that may or may not have been a part of the dress. He played with asymmetry and seemingly separate sleeves to make for a beautiful collection that had sass and sophistication but felt like a slightly new and different direction for Mouret.
(Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION)
The one everyone in fashion has been talking about. How could they not? The verdict? The jackets were the real show pieces here – tapping into that Balenciaga silhouette and spirit but updating it into Vetements fashion lexicon for unfurling layers. They felt modern and sharp. The dresses towards the end, too, were a Vetements classic, only here they got an upgrade in ruffles and more layers. Front row chatter so far and it looks like fashion’s biggest talking point might have just got itself a resolve: success.
The duvet-coat. The what-coat? For all the non-fashion mortals that are not accustomed to our fancy fashion jargon, the duvet-coat is a quilted and padded piece of outerwear that pretty much looks like you're wearing your sleeping bag on your shoulders – unless you do it like Acne Studios did it and turn it into a bright orange drop-shoulder overcoat, then it actually becomes a sassy and cool wardrobe piece with I-want-it-now potential. And to emphasize this season's über-cool offering, Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios' co-founder and creative director, chose a mix of The Cramps for the show's soundtrack.
Elie Saab had "Gypset" on his mind when designing his new Fall/Winter 2016 collection. But what is it exactly? This term reflects on the mélange of gypsy inspired aesthetics that comes with a luxurious feeling, a dash of exoticism, and a carefree attitude – we have to thank Anita Pallenberg and Bianca Jagger for imposing that style throughout the 70s. And this was exactly what Elie Saab's latest collection was about: floor-skimming lace numbers or silk numbers in batik-optic embellished with ruffles and fringes, a touch of Orientalism, and a decidedly nonchalant form of opulence.
VIDEO | SACAI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | SACAI READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISDiscover all the looks online now.#Sacai #PFWPosted by Nowfashion.com on Monday, March 7, 2016
Sacai's hybrids this season – half-military, half-biker equals a modern-day city warrior – were quite impressive, not only for their bold looks, but mainly for the amount of work put into the surface design of each outfit – think sophisticated adornments woven into garments, or applied as ribbons or patches on fierce outerwear pieces. But what made this collection truly interesting was not only the delicate handwork: the redefinition of proportions was this season's mantra and rightfully so. And, as such, the sleeve was on Chitose Abe's radar and came with a trumpet-formed and elongated shape that challenged the proportions of outerwear.
Look at these Masha Ma Vixens and their too-cool-for-school attitude! Well, we wish we could have just a tiny bit of their sassy style, don't you? Masha Ma's Fall/Winter 2016 offering focused on a sexy yet sophisticated take on outerwear and urban-wear that came with a neo-punk touch – think colored hair, dark make-up, zipper and chain adornments, a lot of leather, and oversized outerwear. However, the most desirable looks where the minimal ones: a black outfit that consisted of a zipped turtleneck jumper with trumpet-sleeves paired with an asymmetric skirt, which was adorned with a single metal chain, was something we could wear each and every day – minus the white boots.
VIDEO | STELLA MCCARTNEY READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARIS
VIDEO | STELLA MCCARTNEY READY TO WEAR FALL WINTER 2016 PARISDiscover all the looks online now.#StellaMcCartney #PFWPosted by Nowfashion.com on Monday, March 7, 2016
Stella McCartney's woman is both sassy and effortless, tomboyish and sophisticated, so no wonder that McCartney chose an eclectic and bouncing soundtrack for her latest Fall/Winter 2016 show at l'Opéra Garnier, one that featured the female iconoclast per se, Sri Lankan artist M.I.A. Standout silhouettes included a black jumper printed with a swan motif paired with a kilt-like pleated lamé skirt and an oversized puff vest. Speaking of all-things-quilted, Stella also showcased an edgy take on duvet outerwear, just like Demna Gvasalia did it at Balenciaga and Jonny Johansson did at Acne Studios. Three's a trend.