PFW: The New Season’s Shopping List Shapes Up
Two and a show days into Paris Fashion Week and your next season’s shopping list is already starting to take shape: the Laura Ashley-style Seventies floral dress and a pair of glam rock boots. Note, which should also be worn together.
DRIES VAN NOTEN FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
At Rochas and Dries Van Noten, Mulberry too, said look was at the centre of their Autumn/Winter 2018 offerings: which at Dries made for a gorgeous collection, vast in size and spectacular in its extent of print and texture for elegant feathers twirling around the body on pencil skirts and shaggy jackets, making for a jewelled brooch fastening on tailoring, or on a draped dress with a wonderful swooping sleeve that played at being a cape. The shoes were Seventies glam platforms (ring them up now), the prints reminiscent of that geometric vivid Deco wallpaper but rendered in that fantastical metallic-shimmer that Dries does, while others took on the form of “obsessive doodling.” The colour palette was fresh, clean, and controlled in blue and white and green, some orange in there too, but it all worked. Sometimes, just sometimes, we aren’t as enamoured as we’d like to be with a Dries collection, but that wasn’t the case at all, here lyrical in its ease and elegance to make a seriously strong outing, perhaps set to be one of the strongest of the season.
MULBERRY FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Gio Staiano for NOWFASHION.
Meanwhile, at Mulberry, Johnny Coca is just over two years in and it’s taken some time for the former Céline accessories design director to get into his groove – because even under Emma Hill it was always an accessories brand and London shows were built on the hype of how the Claridge’s ballroom would be decorated, who would be at the after party, and, yes, what bag would be the bag of the season. But the clothes didn’t really matter. Under Coca’s tenure, they do and this was a fun, suitably eccentric, but wearable blend which really felt like he’s found the direction the brand needs to go in. And the jewellery was great too.
ROCHAS FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Backstage at Rochas, Alessandro Dell’Acqua described the importance of elegance for the heritage brand, elegance in daywear, and showed another solid collection of wearable Rochas femininity. “The end of the Seventies, it’s bourgeois Parisian with a little touch of eroticism,” he explained. “It’s an attitude, very contemporary, a modern attitude,” he continued. Tailoring here was laidback but refined with it, but those dresses – as per above - were what pulled on our future purse strings. Just like he does at N°21, Dell’Acqua has a knack for knowing just how to get the balance right.
AALTO FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
Over at Aalto, from Tuomas Merikoski, the balance was all a little off-kilter – on purpose, and all the better for it. It’s not every day one sees a coat with one regular sleeve and another in a leg-of-mutton shape; it’s not every day that such a juxtaposition would even work – on paper it really shouldn’t, one of those weird fashion oddities designers like to try out and find themselves regretting later. Not so here. These worked and looked great. The eye might take a little while to get used to it, but it’s worth it. His apron dresses on dresses worked in a similar vein, but the overall effect was success.
LACOSTE FW18 show in Paris. Photo by Guillaume Roujas for NOWFASHION.
And something else you might want to add to your shopping list is Lacoste’s latest collaboration. Felipe Oliveira Baptista, already revealing the lesser-known side of the brand’s charitable and caring history – in World War II, René Lacoste and his wife created a tree development project for the golf course of Chantaco in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, which ended up sparing locals from mandatory work in Germany as well as overseeing 50,000 trees over 125 acres planted during the war – has created 10 polo shirts to launch a partnership with the International Union for Conservation of Nature, or the IUCN. Fashion, it’s more than just a catwalk.
See DRIES VAN NOTEN's full FW18 collection here.
See MULBERRY's full FW18 collection here.
See ROCHAS's full FW18 collection here.
See AALTO's full FW18 collection here.
See LACOSTE's full FW18 collection here.