Ports 1961 Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Milan
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Models sported heavy rimmed spectacles on the Ports 1961 runway, marking the launch of the brands own line. It seemed two shapes were being proposed, the main being a rounded square frame that gave an architect meets nerd effect. Contrasting, however, the clothing collection was anything but nerdy as thirty-five looks of essentially city-gent attire came down the runway. Working boys buzzing around la bourse in Paris, Wall Street in New York or Victoria in Hong Kong.

A full spectrum of tailoring; double and single-breasted two-piece ensembles were infused with clean-cut winter coats. Fine, hand-knitted cashmere sweaters were tucked into the tops of high waisted tapered pants to compliment the polished look. All of the above came in waves of black, light grey and brown. It was slightly non-descript in the beginning but flourished to a baggier pant later in the show. Buttons, detailing and pockets looked to sit at very square angles with eachother giving a slightly rigid feel, a kind of sweet awkwardness of, say, Clark Kent working away at The Daily Planet.

Towards the end of the show the collection turned to ensembles were more fitting for Superman; two oversized macs – one short one long – as well as an indulgent sable fur number that threw caution to the wind.

As for accessories, these included hand-crafted full-grain calf gloves and alligator over-sized traveler totes, both of which complimented designer Ian Hylton's new trademark frames which he himself was wearing.

- Pascale Barget

www.ports1961.com

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