Prabal Gurung Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 New York

“Regiment!” exclaimed Tiina Laakkonen, Prabal Gurung’s show stylist, backstage immediately following what was a solid collection that beautifully executed one of the major trends for fall: military.

“So often we take women for granted, so I wanted to assert femininity—but in a powerful way,” said Gurung, who sought inspiration from the body armor designed for women that the U.S. military is testing after having read an article on the subject in Time Magazine’s “The Best Inventions of 2012” issue. The empowerment and advancement coupled with femininity was exactly the thread that Gurung wove throughout his entire 36-look collection, which literally was informed, strut after strut, by the new army uniform. The structured but feminine looks featured sexy harnesses and bold peplums—just two elements that lent a harder edge to his power woman attire. The expected army shades of loden green uniforms and bold navy tailoring challenged the notions of dressing; indeed, by slimming the cut, accentuating the waistline and piling on healthy doses of fur, the effect was that of commanding presence and power. “That line thus informed the rest of the collection,” Gurung added.

While Gurung has made his mark on evening, he told a new story with his emphasis on sportswear. Sexy satin skirts, paired with stunning gladiator stilettos (designed with Casadei) complemented the chunky knits and silk charmeuse halter blouses that managed to remain cohesive and focused. Gurung’s Nepalese heritage was evident in the collection as well, exemplified by the beautiful black-and-crimson brocade detailing on a bustier dress and crimson silk crepe draped dress with cut out and graphic black inserts. Adding extra heartfelt sentiment to the day was the appearance of his mother, who flew in from Nepal to see her son’s work live (for the first time, no less).

As for the topic of evening, well there was lots to talk about. And lots to covet. Revealing ever so, the bare shoulders, backs and sides of the asymmetrical gowns—told in his palette of ivory, black, crimson, loden and navy—were precisely draped with the notion saris in mind.

- Jim Shi

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