Well, we’re a long way from the SS11 collection by Prabal Gurung. Where this summer sun-bright colour blocking lit up Gurung’s rails, next summer this new designer (SS12 is just his sixth season) proposes dark violet with forms born from manipulated nature. A discussion across the female form between constraint and flourish shaped and corsetted here while sheer material curled, whisped and twirled there. Panels of black and purple accentuate thigh’s and demure, rounded necklines while transparent materials cut in graphic shapes reveal portions of skin at the hip, waistline and arms. Where Givenchy fans will see much mirrored in this collection from the manifesto set out by Riccardo Tisci recently, this seasons dresses by Prabal Gurung are nevertheless strong statement pieces for all ages, likewise the masculine jackets and plastic skirts.
(words: Sarah Hay)