Prabal Gurung Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2014 New York

At the Prabal Gurung fashion show the designer put a clear emphasis on the “show” aspect of his presentation.  Not only did he tap twins Dawn and Samantha Goldworm to envelope the cavernous location with a signature scent, he also enveloped his models. Sending them all out at the start of the show to stand in back to back rows like high fashion dolls inside a clear plastic curtain.

It was a great concept, all Gurung needed to do was to produce a show that could match it.
Unfortunately, his collection of statuesque 1950s shaped outfits looked derivative of ideas that have been thoroughly (and recently) explored by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons.

The show, filled with shiny pastel satin fabrics, which was used for everything from sporty bomber jackets, midi pencil skirts and bustier tops to trench coats and dresses, never found the right balance of sophistication and modernity. It was in the designer’s odd juxtaposition of such a ladylike fabric with abstract floral motifs printed on plastic pieces or embroidered onto evening gowns that created his rather dissonant designs.

It was only with his quieter exits that Gurung came close to hitting the mark. For example, a demure day dress that turned to reveal a plastic harness created by Zana Bayne attached at the back, or a nubby dress and matching curvy jacket- which looked as if the fabric had been eaten away to create an oversized bloom on the skirt or shoulder- showed a comprehensive mélange of femininity and feistiness.  These were the outfits that showed potential for something more.

But those bubbling ideas were lost among the many ensembles that were so busy trying to say something, that the message never got though.  

- Jessica Michault
 

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