Preen Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 London
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There seems to be something distinctly optimistic about Preen. While inspired by Derek Jarman’s 1987 dystopian satire Jubilee that epitomizes the nihilism of punk, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi presented a collection that had a light and sharp clarity of vision quality, perfectly set on the 32nd floor of the imposing Heron Tower.
 
With a strict palette of solid reds, whites and blacks, blocked and segmented by industrial, cleverly placed zips, the collection channelled the vibe of early Sex Pistols gigs, only deconstructed into neat, wearable sets. Slit leather skirts and kilts were paired with biker and tailored jackets and contrasting collared shirts; everything severe in line but with a feminine feel achieved by the duo’s intelligent pattern-cutting. This was most prominently on display in their stunning tailored zipped coats that are certain to become an iconic item of the brand.
 
The solid palette was then gradually weaved into printed checks, subdued leopard prints, devoré and crystal-encrusted patterns, with the same restraint and sleekness; even when it came to heavy studding, the designers didn’t lose their signature streamlined polish, even if decadently embellished. Exquisitely crafted, the harlequin crystal sets in the end stood out precisely because of their solid structures and air of ease. Never too laboured, never too literal, Thornton and Bregazzi seem to always get it just right, instilling the audience with a sense of sanguine trust in what comes next in fashion.

- Maria Dimitrova

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