Let’s work our way backwards with the latest Proenza Schouler show. For it was at the end of this deconstructed sporty collection where the designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough really brought something new to the fashion conversation.
Their fringed skirted tank top evening dresses crafted out of densely woven silk threads were sexy sporty winners. And the addition of some cool cut out diamond patterned oversized sweaters only seemed to somehow help to accentuate the swishing movement of the skirts. Both of these items will be the take away pieces from this particular show.
Elsewhere the duo tried to elevate the idea of activewear -- the mesh, the perforations, the graphism -- by using luxury fabrics such as leather or python and implementing more labor intensive fabrication techniques like crochet and knotting. It sounds like a great idea on paper, but on the catwalk the elastic wasted bi-colored trousers, open weave knit dresses and stiff stitched leather tops never made it ‘into the zone’.
What did work particularly well were the accessories. The designers had some stellar footwear this season. Their fringe topped sandals, open toed boots and metal bracelet ankle wrapped heels all should sell out in seconds. The leather spiky fringed evening bags and crochet clutches were both original, and the ladylike boxy day bags will find their own followers.
If it’s true that LVMH wants to snap up a stake in this house, then the strong showing of this collection’s lucrative accessories lines should make it hard for the luxury group to wait much longer.