Prada and The Show That Never Happened
Few people do fashion quite like Miuccia Prada. After the announcement back in February stating that Raf Simons would become the brand’s new co-creative director, today we were lucky enough to witness Miuccia’s last solo collection – her final bow after three decades of unforgettable shows.
Of course, a simple presentation wasn’t in the plan – it needed that Prada touch to make it unforgettable. And so we have it, multiple views by a multitude of global creatives or, as Miuccia presented it, the show that never happened. A different approach to the season, for a collection that proposed myriad interpretations of the Prada man and woman. Presented in five chapters, the overall performance is congruent and impeccable.
“A collection in which radicalism is found in purity; an antidote to complexity in precision; in apparent fragility, strength; and through rigour, joy. A reason for fashion,” read this season’s show notes. Notably, a collection that focuses on the quintessence of Prada, its clothes and their meaning. “Often,” we read, “their meanings are compound and multiplex: simultaneously speaking of sportswear and formality, of classicism and futurism, pieces are paradoxes, situated in multiple worlds – just as their debut here is not only framed by the eye of Prada, but by a panoply of creatives.”
With the brand changing and evolving with each season, this time the attention was drawn back to the clothes: simple, with a specific use and value, longevity and a definite place in our lives. “As times become increasingly complex, clothes become straightforward, unostentatious, machines for living and tools for action and activity,” the brand explains. Classic tailored suits create a sharp silhouette, Prada’s Linea Rossa sportswear and its timeless nylon fabrics blend in with soft knits and a rare appearance of pastels and florals. A collection with a purpose determined to elegantly wave goodbye.
Ferretti’s Ode to Italy
At Alberta Ferretti, the designer decided to bring us on a virtual trip around Italy and paid homage to some of the most beautiful cities in the country. Throughout the collection, femininity is expressed through sophisticated daywear characterised by rigorous lines and intricate details: brightly coloured tuxedo jackets, soft gabardine trench coats, silk chiffon blouses, high waisted tailored trousers and, to give the collection a slightly more masculine tone, double-breasted blazers. Striped jacquard knits with hand made crochet details and cherry pink chiffon pleated dresses with lace inserts make an appearance to emphasise Ferretti’s love for craftsmanship.
The prints are true the protagonists of this Resort 2021 collection, from romantic flowers to stripes, paintings and tie-dye, found on their own or overlapping for a patchwork effect. The colour palette is based on a chromatic dualism between shades of blue mixed with pink and cherry, with a few touches of sand and orange. Coloured denim alternates with a more classic blue creating soft volumes and radius cuts, all revisited with new eco-sustainable dyeing and washing techniques.
Overall, the collection felt personal and hit home – a beautiful homage to a country ready to get back on its feet.
One With Nature at Vivetta
With a short two-minute video, Vivetta presented its Resort 21 collection. A dream within a dream: soft frames captures two models in an almost enchanted garden. With nature as its main inspiration, flowers bloom on soft dresses, jackets, shoes and hair.
Accompanied by sweet nature sounds, the presentation is somewhat bucolic. "The big wave is a symbolism of nature's force that threatens humanity and makes us recognize this moment of our present. More than ever, surrealism, as an omnipotence of the dream and a disinterested game of thought, can be the resolution of life's problems," writes the brand.
Her iconic hands embroidered collar was, this time, shown in different versions: from monochrome – used to underline cutouts on shirts and dresses – to crystals, coloured sequins and macramé.
Blasts From The Past at Moschino
This season, Moschino decided to reinterpret its iconic symbols with completely new and original codes, paying homage to the brand's creative heritage in an innovative way – all through colour, energy and positivity. The classic pois became contemporary, combined of bright and bold colours. Smiley is now presented in a quilted version on outerwear, dresses and jersey outfits.
Much like Ferretti, Scott opted for a tribute to Italy with tricolour garments on which the infamous slogan "I don’t speak Italian but I do speak Moschino" was printed. And, last but not least, the unmistakable coloured and printed sketch-effect Biker Bags complete the collection; golden chains with lettering, the double question mark painting effect combined with a floral print and, at last, the iconic and unmistakable Teddy Bear.
A tribute to the past, Moschino's collection reconfirms what we already knew, a fun and light-hearted type of fashion. With a clever use of geometric shapes and playful colours, Scott’s Donna 21 Resort conveys a clear message of optimism in a moment where uncertainty and fear are still making headlines.