Ralph Lauren Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York
Aye, aye! From last season’s English country “Downton Abbey” retro mood, Ralph Lauren darted south—be it to Spain or Latin America—for an appreciation of all things handcrafted and homespun for spring. “I am forever inspired by faraway exotic places,” Lauren said. “I may never have traveled there, but in my imagination it is real.” True to form, the clothes were perfectly suited for what was a momentous occasion—not many knew this was the designer’s 80th runway show.
A Ralph Lauren show always makes a statement. For spring, as witnessed by front row celebrities Jessica Alba, Olivia Wilde and American Olympian Ryan Lochte, that began as a flirtatious Spanish lullaby with a ruffled suede poet blouse cut low, followed by a series of señoritas sauntering in day looks boasting blanket stitch and fringe detailing. The looks hinted at what was to come: an explosion of floral-themed chiffon evening dresses (a terrific wild rose print) and multicolor blanket-style serapes that slowly built the momentum.
As the models transitioned into luxe matadors, so, too, did the looks to reflect their new status. All the elements were there—beaded boleros, organza vests with gold embroidery and embellished jodhpur pants, festive fedoras, colorful silk scarves worn around the necks and even a rose on the hip. And while at times Ernest Hemingway’s 1920s novel, “The Sun Also Rises,” came to mind as a reference point, kudos to Lauren for never once making the outfits feel like costumes. There were stunning sleeve treatments (most obvious in a white linen ruffle sleeve blouse).
Primary colors indicative of the Spain-cum-Latin American flavor—amethyst, tomato red, teal, ivory and scarlet—blanketed much of the show, while accessories—beaded crossbody fringe bags, leather fan clutches, tooled calfskin holdalls and classic satin peep toe and platform sandals—completed Lauren’s ethnic detour.
For evening, a scarlet-colored georgette gown kicked off the hit parade, boasting beading around the shoulders that created this capelet effect. The finale, meanwhile, brought the entire collection back with a more sober mood as reflected in the black silk faille jacket with gold embroidery and evening skirt with tiers of organza that fell into a train.
- Jim Shi