Reed Krakoff Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2013 New York

“She’s an ultra sexy woman.” In a nutshell, Reed Krakoff’s spring show chartered into (relatively) new territory a la Helmut Newton meets Helmut Lang. The lingerie dressing across multiple layers signified a new direction for the brand—one that teetered more toward architectural and less about femininity.

From the linear “track totes” nearly every model carried down the runway (FYI they’re bonded together with rubberized tape) to the convenience of having clothes that don’t go with instruction manuals, the utility and, dare we say, practicality of it all lied in a series of fine garments: jackets, boxing shorts and those aforementioned slip dresses in jersey. While the collection was fluid and silky, there was juxtaposition—or sharpening, rather—by geometric panels of black satin or visible lingerie. An alligator skirt with shirttail hem was a spectacular addition.

Leather was infused with blushes and sheer browns while liquid-like sheaths were elegant yet sporty; together they brought a technical restraint. Krakoff has always been a designer who creates minimalist pieces. For spring, he’s taken it up a bit, conveying a sharp, minimalist attitude of the reinterpretations. For the everyday looks, sweatshirts and track jackets, shown in elegant hues, conveyed athleticism.

- Jim Shi