Rick Owens Menswear Fall Winter 2012 Paris
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As legions of mini Rick Owens sneak up on the runways every season, the ‘Prince of Darkness’ has to reinvent himself ad eternam to remain unique.

Last season, he thought up a gender studies goldmine with somber male robes (dresses and skirts in my opinion); this season he shocked crowds with a sporty collection – believe it or not, to some of his fans, this is far more outrageous.

Yet he did so in a distinctively Rick manner: tank top peaking through sheer jersey turtle-necks, aqua sheer blue tops in rainproof material and white trainer all perpetuated the label’s constant balance between delicate, dark and ergonomic.

The show oscillated between classic male references – gelled side-parting, sensible suits, and clean-cut jumpers, and female detailing, including bellow-the-breast buttoning echoing empire cuts or elongated high-waist trousers.

For those about to leave the venue thinking Rick had become more tamed, the last few looks proved otherwise: cashmere floor length skirts and a long black coat poured out, all for a rather Cruella Deville look – making the designer as impossible to categorize as always.

-Alice Pfeiffer

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