Rick Owens Menswear Fall Winter 2017 Paris
Oversize silhouettes, with down quilting layers, with long appliqué sleeves, with floor grazing trousers.
Glitter: a word that shimmers evocatively and flashes at first sight. But if it’s chosen by Rick Owens as his title for the season then rest assured it will have a more profound meaning.
“I chose this name as a reaction to my last collection cycle that was based on physical and ecological decline, it was time to move forward,” the designer from Los Angeles explained to MFF, “Glitter is a reference to a period in the 70’s that celebrated immortality, transgression, sexual liberation and flamboyant non-conformity. Almost like a grotesque trick, that rejects fear in difficult moments.” That’s to say, Owens definitely has a concept and he realizes it with his visionary approach. He creates silhouettes that reflect on and reinterpret internal issues. Creating soft suits of armour, attached to the body covered in quilted fabrics with volumes somewhere between tramp and evening suit. There are opera capes accompanied by the voice of Monserrat Caballé singing the l’aria di Dalila, earning the trust of Sansone before destroying him. Sleeves with knitted appliqué lengthen jackets, super mega oversize shapes. Trousers that drag along the floor, faces painted white, roughed up hair applied to headbands with an alopecia effect. Big horizontal lines and quilting. Outlining figures like balloon animals alla Jeff Koons, or those that are sold on the street.
By Stefano Roncato - MFF Magazine for Fashion