Rick Owens Menswear Spring Summer 2013 Paris

Rick Owen is looking on the bright side of life.  Relatively speaking that is, this is Owens we are talking about here. So yes there was a whole lot of black, the strange footwear (peep toe clogs and leg warmers) and the odd shaved head or two on the catwalk. A designer who has made a habit of creating collections that are asexual in nature, Owens once again blurred the lines between the sexes. So the long silhouettes filled with flyaway panels on knee length skirts, lean coats and modern monk-like dresses looked familiar.

But it is always the exceptions of what we have come to expect from Owens that make the biggest impact. This time the single shoulder columns of cloth cut from a patchwork of fur pieces, the kaleidoscope patterned print in shades of gray that showed up on a selection of pieces at the end of the show and the oversized anoraks embellished with sporty bands of fabric all spoke to a designer still willing to experiment. Interesting too was the use of feminine fabrics like organza to create semi-transparent jackets in pure white.  

This was a collection that showed a softer side of Owens. Where models who had to walk through pillars of light to make it onto the catwalk seemed to be sending the message that the designer is starting to break free from the bonds his style has bound him to over the years.  

-Jessica Michault

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