For several seasons now, Rick Owens’ womenswear shows had been described by the Shakespearean quote ‘Take thee to a nunnery’. In other word, ecclesiastical chic and heavy black lengths.
This season, he further experimented with holy matters by referencing several various orders of the Catholic Church. The show kicked off by a series of deconstructed cassocks. Those lost a few inches from their typical lengths, and were worn as dresses or coats, with a floor length skirt poking out underneath.
Despite the dramatic face masks the models wore, the collection was decisively more ergonomic than last season – think harem trousers tucked into sensible boots and three quarter length fur coats. Best known for his leather jackets, Owens also designed quite a few for the occasion: some with concealed buttons and mismatching sleeves, others caramel-tinted, cropped and lined with fur.
Although the seasonal theme of the medieval era was so close to home, ‘the prince of darkness’ managed to avoid all self-clichés, and instead, provided one of his lightest collections so far.