Rick Owens Ready To Wear Fall Winter 2013 Paris
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With a gust of smoky white wind Rick Owens pushed his rebellious moody aesthetic in a compelling new direction.

Never fear Owens fans, there weren’t any floral prints or lingerie embellishments on the designer’s catwalk. No, he stuck to his favorite palette of white and black – with just a dash of crème. And his iconic boots (this time wrapped up in white laces) were just as theatrical– if more real world practical- as they have ever been.
But there was something strangely romantic about this show.

The way the models ratted out hair was blown about their faces as they walked past the powerful wind machines at the back of the runway, to gently obscure the face as they headed towards the cameras, was a poetic concept. The clothing too, with scarves trailing behind the girls as they walked or extra large sheerling coat hoods that zipped open to fall well past the shoulders and collars that draped down longer on one side of outerwear had a dreamy indifference to them.

Hitting on the trend towards more voluminous shapes, Owens couched his rounded pieces in Asian influences, in particularly kimono sleeves on jackets and tops. But it was the cleaver way he moved from the toggle closures on duffle coast to embellishing easy fitting tops with graphic lines of “shoe lace” lacing woven through the fabric and final taking the idea to a dramatic conclusion, when a more tubular take on those laces was used to cross stitch together different colored panels of fur, to form a conversation starting coat that moved this show into the winners circle.

- Jessica Michault

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