As far as fashion shock value goes, Rick Owens pretty much shot his wad with his last menswear show, which featured a few of the models’ twigs and berries framed by the garments. Could the designer top it with his latest fall/winter 2015 womenswear collection?
He didn’t even try.
Instead, Owens decided to give women something they could relate to on perhaps a more profoundly feminine level – metallic sequins. And paired that most ostentatious of embellishments (a first for him) with blanket-like designs that enveloped the body in asymmetrical folds. Their comforting silhouettes a strangely appealing bedfellow for the geometrically aligned bands of gold or silver paillettes that decorated their midsection.
The designer called this collection “Sphinx” and proceeded to cover a number of the models’ faces in gold or sliver leaf that fluttered unfinished about the face as they walked the concrete catwalk in the bowels of the Palais de Tokyo. But even if the faces had a fierce inscrutability, the voluminous clothing felt very much approachable, if possibly not the most practical.
Still, this is a brand that is as much about artistic expression as it is about viable wardrobe alternatives. This time there was more than enough on the catwalk that blended those two needs together in a way that made them both beautifully attainable.