Something’s going on in the basement of Palais de Tokyo. No natural light, only bare walls and white accents, a backdrop against which bold silhouettes are exasperated. Genetically modified, totally intriguing...OGM but also OMG.
Rick Owens starts a new metamorphic journey into the female universe, exploring some extreme elements. Dresses. Jackets. Tops. They have a complex bourgeois construction that transforms into lightweight architecture. They are well thought out, almost magical, worn with pointed boots and a touch of follie that is Peter Pan-esque. They are creatures of the wind, blown up to give them volume. Occasionally seen in lavender colored tulle, like Carla Erba, mother of Luchino Visconti when he was on the Lido in Venice.
Asymmetrical skirts triumph, with long panels at the front, shorter at the back. The material flows, the shoulders are sharp shapes suspended in the air, the construction is impalpable. White, black, flashes of yellow. With large fur appliqué like blossoming flowers, symbols of elegance….or love. Like the vaporous movements of fur capes in marabou feathers which closed the show. She’s like the wind.
by Stefano Roncato - MFFashion