Always a delight to watch, the Rodarte show is amongst the most warmly anticipated of each New York fashion week.
Inspired by the American Prairies, Kate and Laura Mulleavy's new, incredibly romantic collection featured lots of day-dream invoking colours such as ‘dawn wheat’, ‘dusk wheat’ or ‘honey brass’ and ‘slate blue’. The collection invited city dwellers (for the fanbase of Rodarte is usually urban and upwardly mobile) to add the notion of gazing over maize fields or the warm touch of a wooden porch to their doubtlessly busy days. There was a hand-knit mohair sweater with Amish quilt motif, leather pinafores, cream lace skirts, caramel dotted wools, horse-hair trims and appliqued leather belts. Every single ensemble followed the creative inspiration, even the heels, a collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood that had patterns reminding one of American Indian blankets.
Rodarte designs are always forward thinking yet earthy by which I mean that the Rodarte woman looks to the future and innovation in fashion but she’s not an alien. The femininity to the Mulleavy sister’s designs eschews qualities not unlike that of a Greek Goddess visiting from the twenty-second century: romantic, individual and with geometric structures that catch the eye. This prairie collection continued this tradition.
The thinking woman’s label, Tilda Sinton, Cecilia Dean and Natalie Portman are fans as is Chloe Sevigny. Rodarte contributed to the costumes of Darren Aronofsky’s Black Swan.