It was a leather and lace moment at the Rodarte show on Tuesday. With a healthy dose of sequins and feather embellishments thrown in for good measure as the sister designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy turned to the beauty of birds and their poetic migration patterns to inspire their romantic yet rock and roll creations.
Birds have been good to the duo in the past. Their California condor collection back in 2009 was a high-water mark in their professional career. While the ballet costumes they made for Natalie Portman's Oscar-winning turn in the film Black Swan gave the brand international recognition. And again today birds help this fall/winter 2015 collection take flight.
Feathers were referenced in short skirts constructed from strips of leather sliced to finish off in points. Allusions to the spindly legs of exotic fowl could be gleaned from all the painted-on high-waisted leather pants with lace inserts running the length of the outer leg that appeared on the catwalk. While tiered bias cut gowns each crafted from slanting diagonal sections built of colorful plumes, embroidered flowers or sequined chiffon gave those garments a heightened sense of movement and suggested wings in motion.
As the BeeGees sang their 70's classic "Run to Me" and the models appeared like shimmering sequined-covered exotic birds of paradise to close out the show, this collection reached its lyrical climax. Once again proving that Rodarte is a brand that dreams big and dares even bigger.