After a night of grim February rain, the sun shone on London Fashion Week once again this morning — streaming through the glass roof of a 1930s public bath building in Marylebone and illuminating a spectacular, swirling runway dreamt up by designer Gary Card. The set's vast purple curves provided plenty of stomping space for designer Roksanda Ilincic's models, as they emerged from the wings in multicoloured lace-up shoes, bold pin-up girl lipstick and Forties pin-rolled hairdos.
The defiant, Technicolor luxury of that war-damaged decade dominated the entire show, from the intense palette (plum, shocking pink, mulberry, indigo, pumpkin, cobalt and tangerine) to the long, elegant silhouettes and sensuous fox-fur collars.
And the runway's swirls were repeated as bold, abstract prints splashed wildly across knits, furs and silks, layered with slashed felt pinafores, sheer berry-coloured polo necks and curvaceous metal belts. In a season which has so far felt tastefully muted, Ilincic's lipstick-bright colours and lush, opulent texture combinations were a welcome early-morning assault on the senses.