It wouldn't be an overstatement to say that women love Roksanda. Her support from the Duchess of Cambridge, Tilda Swinton and Michelle Obama (who famously wore Roksanda to meet the Chinese president Hu Jintao), surely goes beyond just trend or novelty. The disused office in Mayfair that housed the Spring Summer show earlier today shed some light as to why this might be. It became clear that Roksanda designs for the working woman, presenting dresses that women choose for themselves through their own means, affirming that they are to be seen and heard. The subliminal message that occasion dressing for women need not equate to subjugation to male power, status, wealth (and Gaze) is a strong look for women in positions of influence.
The models this morning embodied just that sort of conviction, marching down the runway decidedly. Roksanda's highlighter shades cut through the corporate grey walls of the office venue, even with a dusty filter this season. Her focus was on exaggerated sculptural folds and geometric photographic prints. The manipulation of primary shapes translated into contrasting paneling accents on structured day wear and geometric Perspex embellishments. The double facing, sculptural draping and play on geometry echo the work of New York-based installation artist Julia Dault.
Roksanda also paid careful attention to the footwear, collaborating with celebrated British shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood. Raw-cut leather shoes came in signature bright colors and asymmetrical shapes that were relaxed and easy. The Serbian designer's iconography grows stronger with each season, worthy of dropping her last name. Roksanda's decision to opt for a more familiar first name basis is indeed a preserve earned just like her illustrious list of clients.